Something old, something new

A trip to Pulau Duyong turns into a rush through history for ALAN TEH LEAM SENG as he hops from a 90-year-old fort to traditional boatmakers and a modern marina resort

DRIVING along Sultan Mahmud Bridge was a breeze despite the hot tropical heat. Traffic was heavy but smooth flowing.

I soon came up to a sign directing me to turn towards my destination, Pulau Duyong or Mermaid Island, one of Terengganu’s most happening tourist destinations today, thanks to the annual international sailing event, the Monsoon Cup.

This year’s competition starts tomorrow, and already my mind has vivid pictures of sail boats taking to the raging South China Sea fronting the island.

All’s ‘Well’

My first stop was the Duyong Old Fort which showcased traditional Terengganu architecture. Along the way, I passed several houses that still had wells near the steps leading up to their homes.

Some 50 years ago, most of the villagers in Pulau Duyong depended on wells and the Terengganu River for their daily water supply. Curiosity got the better of me and I took a peek inside one well. What a pleasant surprise it was to find water in it still!

Just then, an elderly man in a sarong came up and threw in a bucket to draw water. His toothless grin was friendly. After washing his feet, he went up the staircase and entered what must be his home. The metal bucket that he left hanging by the side of the house looked aged and was badly dented. “It must have served him well through the years,” I thought.

Fort Without Fortifications?

Duyong Old Fort was just a short distance away. At first glance, it looked like a traditional Malay palace. I was especially attracted to the intricately carved woodwork and layout. The imposing structure, sheltered by nine roofs, is said to resemble the designs of several types of traditional Terengganu homes like Bujang Berpeleh, Lima Bungkus and Potong Belanda.

Although the name conjures up an image of strong fortifications and ramparts, the primary objective for building the fort was not to ward off marauding invaders. Built some 90 years ago during a period of peace and prosperity, the fort was erected to showcase Terengganu’s rich architectural heritage.

Strong Corinthian and Egyptian influences add to its artistic allure. A few historians are of the opinion that the person responsible for the building, Datuk Biji Sura, was so influenced by visiting tradesmen to Kuala Terengganu that he decided to incorporate their art into his design of the fort.

Despite its age, the white walls hardly showed any sign of wear. Perhaps this was due to the innovative use of clay, sand, eggs, honey and lime (from cockle shells) for construction at the time by the rich and famous. I remember once reading with scepticism, in Noel Barber’s Tanamera, about the use of this technique to produce plaster that was as smooth and strong as marble. Perhaps there was some truth to the tale after all.

Datuk Biji Sura was the cousin of Terengganu’s first Menteri Besar. He was well educated and began his career as a clerk at the Terengganu Court. He was later appointed a member of the Royal Council with additional duties as chief Syariah Court judge and commissioner of Religious Affairs.

Boat Builders

After soaking in the illustrious history of the island’s past, I made my way to see an industry that had become synonymous with Pulau Duyong.

No visit to the island would be complete without a visit to its renowned shipyards. The island has gained worldwide recognition as a centre for traditional boat making. The boats are built without the use of blueprints or plans!

I watched in awe as the local craftsmen went about their task. Everything was done by hand and surprisingly, there were few modern equipment used. I approached several builders taking a break nearby.

What they told me was simply amazing. It’s true indeed that they don’t use a single blueprint or plan to build a vessel, be it a giant trawler or a luxury yacht destined for foreign shores!

All a master craftsman needs to know is the type and size of vessel. He then draws on his vast experience and photographic memory to begin his work. Even in this day and age, well-worn traditional tools like axe, saw, plane and hammer are the main tools of the trade.

Before returning to their work after the short break, one of the craftsmen pointed in the direction Kuala Terengganu and said “Monsoon Cup”. I knew immediately that he was referring to the Heritage Bay Club Marina and Resort, which incidentally was my final stop for the day.

Home of the Monsoon Cup

Leaving Duyong Old Fort and the traditional boat builders, I drove towards the Heritage Bay Club Marina & Resort with its spanking new clubhouse, chalets and state of the art yachting facilities.

Along the way, I had the strangest feeling of being in a time capsule with the entire history of Pulau Duyong moving fast forward at lightning speed. I was now heading back to the future!

The Heritage Bay Club Marina & Resort was established in conjunction with the inaugural Monsoon Cup in 2005 to promote Terengganu as a world acclaimed yachting venue. It offers water related activities like river cruises, sail tours and regattas and conducts training for community groups, corporate organisations and the general public.

I headed for the Ulek Mayang Restaurant to quench my thirst and get a chance to rest my travel weary feet. Here, I enjoyed stunning views of Kuala Terengganu town and the South China Sea from its ultra modern dining area. Even the partitions separating each table were shaped like sails!

The food had interesting local names like Pulau Redang Special (foot-long chicken sausage bun), Heritage Bay Club Lekor Fried Rice with fried fish cake, Monsoon Laksa and Nasi Lemak Traditional Seberang Takir.

Fed, rehydrated and rested, I went to the marina, hoping to catch a glimpse of the prize-winning boats to be used in the Monsoon Cup competition. I was not disappointed. There they were, a pair of boats inscribed “Richard Mille”, bobbing gently by the pontoon.

With great satisfaction, I bade farewell to Pulau Duyong. By then, the evening sky was a picture-perfect backdrop for the island which embodied both Terengganu’s illustrious past as well as the promise of a bright future.

Getting There

By Air: Pulau Duyong lies a short distance from Kuala Terengganu, the capital and largest town in the State. The opening of the Sultan Mahmud Bridge in 1990 not only allowed easy access to the island but also spurred its growth from a sleepy fishing village to a tourist destination. Kuala Terengganu is about 50 minutes by air from Kuala Lumpur. Malaysia Airlines and AirAsia make several daily flights to Kuala Terengganu. Pulau Duyong is about 20 minutes from the airport.

By road: Travellers from Kuala Lumpur can head east towards Kuantan via the Karak Highway. It takes about three hours to reach Kuantan. From there, the smooth driving and scenic coastal route will lead straight to Kuala Terengganu.

Those from the north, including Penang, should take the East-West Highway and head towards Kota Baru. From here, take the coastal road and you’d be in Kuala Terengganu in no time at all. From the south, including Johor and Singapore, drive along the North-South Expressway and exit at Yong Peng. From there, travel along the main thoroughfare to Labis and Segamat. Just follow the road signs from Segamat to Kuantan. From there, it is smooth driving all the way to Kuala Terengganu.

By Sea: Those intending to approach Pulau Duyong by sea should note that its position is Lat 05° 20.3´ N Long. 103° 085´ E. The Pulau Duyong Light Beacon flashes green (3s) while the Kuala Terengganu Light Beacon flashes quick white. Communication is via VHF listening on Ch. 16 and Single Side Band (SSB) on frequency 8124.00 KHz.

Accommodation

The Heritage Bay Club Marina and Resort offers comfortable chalet-style accommodation. There are three categories of chalets: Cemara (duplex), Teratak (executive suite) and Serambi (deluxe room). Guests have a choice of dining either at the Mayang Sari Restaurant or at the Terengganu House poolside lounge.

For further information and reservation, contact The Heritage Bay Club Marina & Resort, Pulau Duyong, 21300 Kuala Terengganu, Terengganu. Tel: 09-627 7888 Fax: 09-622 9903. E-mail: info@heritagebayclub.com. Website: www.heritagebayclub.com

Must Do

Interesting sights are best appreciated on foot. Bring ample drinking water and wear comfortable walking shoes. Wide brimmed hats will offer a respite from the tropical sun.

In the village, watch the villagers go about their daily activities including drawing water from ancient wells. Then visit the Duyong Old Fort. Look out for its exquisite woodcarvings especially on the veranda. The boat building workshops are a must visit.

Walk around the marina to see the racing boats on display. Along the way, stop and enjoy the bracing sea breeze and stunning views of Kuala Terengganu town across the Terengganu River.

http://www.nst.com.my/Current_News/TravelTimes/article/FeatureStory/20071127085614/Article/index_html

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Land of milk and honey

ARE Australia and New Zealand in the South Pacific a land of milk and honey, a land blessed with all natural good things, a Promised Land of extraordinary fertility?

The phrase “flowing with milk and honey” describes the land’s richness, hence its use to express the abundance of pure enjoyment.

And yes, Australia and New Zealand can deliver such promises of milk and honey where fun and enjoyment are concerned. They may not have all the man-made wonders but Mother Nature has been generous with her creations in both countries!

In Australia, these include the Great Barrier Reef, the only living organic reef collectively visible from the Earth’s orbit, the mysterious Ayers Rock, raising out from the earth in the middle of nowhere! The world’s largest monolith and an aboriginal sacred site, Ayers Rock is one of the most famous natural landmarks in the world.

New Zealand may be a small country but it’s filled with fascinating natural diversity. Erupting geysers, boiling mud pools, majestic snow-capped peaks, pristine lakes, fjords and glaciers, sub tropical flora, unique wildlife such as the kiwi and the ancient tuatara.

The many wonders of New Zealand have captured hearts of visitors and many come back again and again to this fascinating country marked by unique natural features.

On Cook’s Trail

Travelling to the South Pacific is like tracing the steps of Captain Cook in the late 18th Century. Cook’s expeditions changed the perception of earth. His voyages to the South Pacific brought two hemispheres together, contributing greatly to the European knowledge of the southern hemisphere, its geography, flora, and fauna and indigenous civilisations.

His three voyages resulted in the British laying claim to the east coast of Australia, the European discovery of many Pacific Islands and the first circumnavigation and mapping of Australia and New Zealand.

He also made the first contact between Europeans and indigenous civilisations of the South Pacific, leading to important anthropological discoveries. And immigrants have been flocking the South Pacific since!

Travelling to Australia and New Zealand is now made even easier with the recent launch of budget carrier Jetstar from Kuala Lumpur to Sydney and from Australia to New Zealand.

For a trip to the Promised Land, log on to MSL Travel website at www.msltravel.com or call 03-4042 4722 (KL) and 04-227 2655 (Penang).

http://www.nst.com.my/Current_News/TravelTimes/article/Outbound/20071127093845/Article/index_html

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Backpacking the way to travel

MISS Model of the World 2007 (Malaysia) Jessie Chantelle Chuah made Malaysia proud when she won the Best Evening Gown title at the International Model of the Year 2007 competition held in Seoul, Korea.

Her Cleopatra-style evening gown not only captivated the judges but it also caught the eye of top Korean fashion designer Andre Kim who signed her on as his model for a video clip entitled Andre Kim’s Dramatic Show 2007, showcasing his Winter Collections.

Ipoh-born Chuah loves travelling, especially backpacking, and has been doing so since she studied in the University of Manchester, UK for the past two years.

Backpacking gives her a sense of independence and it allows her to get to know new places in the cheapest way possible.

Tell us about your most interesting travel experience.

Recently, I went to Negeri Sembilan and befriended some Orang Asli who brought me to their homes. I learned about their daily lives, cultures and beliefs. It was fascinating.

Have you ever had a really bad experience?

When my bulky luggage wheel broke on the way to the airport. I had to drag it throughout the journey until I could buy a new bag.

How best do you unwind on your holiday?

I will familiarise myself with the local culture and environment. Then I’ll write it all down in my diary so that I can recall the sweet memories in the future.

What type of holidays do you prefer?

I prefer to backpack in a foreign land. I will plan my route and visit places that I have longed to visit.

Who do you go holiday with?

I like to travel on my own.

What is your favourite holiday destination in Malaysia? Does it also give you the best holiday memory?

Taman Negara in Pahang. The jungle gives us an experience different from our urban lifestyle.

What or who do you miss most when you go away on vacation?

My grandma’s cooking.

What do you hate most while travelling?

An unco-operative or dependent companion as he or she may delay the journey.

Where next would you like to go?

Hiking and rock climbing, maybe in Sabah.

Where would you recommend your friend to go?

My hometown Ipoh. I think the buildings in the Old Town say much about life in Ipoh during the 19th Century.

What was the best thing you bought on your travel and where?

I collect unusual things. I found an irresistible wooden, hand-crafted keris in Malacca.

What was the best food you ever tasted during your travel and where?

Kaya butter toast and Ipoh Old Town white coffee.

Any advice or tips for travellers?

Plan your journey properly but yet be spontaneous.

Any comment on Malaysian tourism – places of interest, services, etc?

The government should provide more rubbish bins at prime destinations. Also, signages should be in both Malay and English for the convenience of foreigners.

http://www.nst.com.my/Current_News/TravelTimes/article/TravelSavvy/20071127092607/Article/index_html

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Healthy holidays

Nobody likes falling sick when on vacation. Eating properly is one way to avoid food poisoning, writes SHANTI GUNARATNAM

NEVER take your health for granted, especially if you are travelling or planning to go on a vacation.

There is nothing more miserable than falling ill and having to spend the holidays recuperating in hotel rooms, hospitals or even cutting short their stay.

Nutritionists and dieticians will advise you to eat healthy when on holiday to avoid food poisoning and other problems. Instead of gorging on oily food or snacking on unhealthy tidbits, choose your food carefully.

Hotels buffets are always a healthier option and they would usually have local favourites too. Start your meal with salads or fruit and then move on to main courses before taking a little dessert.

If you’re dining outside, choose to eat at places that are clean and which offer freshly cooked food.

Watch what you’re drinking. Make sure the water is properly boiled. Otherwise, choose bottled water instead.

As for your medication, do not forget to bring along that prescribed by your doctor. Also, don’t forget to bring your health supplements and medications for food poisoning, diarrhoea, migraine (the hot weather is known to trigger headache in some people) and motion sickness. Over-the-counter allergy medication can come in handy too.

It is also important to get enough rest. Just because you are on holiday doesn’t mean you can do with fewer hours of sleep.

Doctors say if you have a really good rest during your break, you will come back rejuvenated.

http://www.nst.com.my/Current_News/TravelTimes/article/TravelTips/20071029152443/Article/index_html

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Busy, busy in JB

Johor Baru has a reputation as a bustling city that never sleeps. City slicker SAM CHEONG puts this to the test with a haircut, grocery shopping and running the gauntlet of Lai-Lai Girls

STRAIGHT off my head, I can tell you three things I know about Johor Baru. First, it has the highest concentration of Indian barber shops in one district. Second, there are enough hypermarkets in this city to feed all your grocery needs and third, it’s the home of the notorious Lai-Lai Girls.

This southern-most city in the peninsula is also only next to Kuala Lumpur when it comes to the high cost of living. Johor Baru, or JB in short, is a city that never sleeps.

The moment you step out of an airplane in Senai, a bus at the Larkin transit centre or the train at the JB station, you will immediately feel at home… if you’re a city slicker, that is.

From the bustling daily activities here, you will immediately establish the fact that the folks here have spending power. In particular, for those who come in from across the causeway, lugging sackloads of Singapore dollars, everything is automatically “half-price”. Sadly, it’s the reverse for those entering the republic with a wallet full of ringgit.

Economics aside, JB is an interesting place. Imagine it as the “Mos Eisley” (Star Wars) port, minus spaceships and aliens of course. It’s big and well, growing very fast.

Hair Cut, Anyone?

Let’s start with Indian barbers. If you cruise down Jalan Meldrum and Jalan Wong Ah Fook, the first thing you’d notice, besides the girlie barber outlets that are a front for middle-aged prostitutes called Lai-Lai Girls, is the countless number of barber shops.

Having worked and lived in JB for a while, I’ve had cheaper haircuts in Kulai, about 45 minutes drive away. But for some strange reason, I just had the urge to get a haircut.

The Indian barber shops are located along Jalan Meldrum or opposite City Square Plaza. One particular shop caught my attention. I approached the two guys seated outside and showed them the “scissors” sign with my fingers. One of them, in his 20s, nodded and led me to a barber’s chair.

The Indian barbers here really take pride in keeping their premises clean. The moment your shorn locks hit the ground, zoom comes the broom and dust-pan!

“Hello boss, ada baik kah? Apa style mau?”, (Hey boss, how are you? What style would you like?)

“Ah, tepi nipis, atas kasi pendek (short sides and trim the top),” I instructed.

He wasted no time manoeuvring his electric shears around my scalp, clipping off excess hair. It didn’t take him long to make me a happy man. But he was not done yet. “Boss, ini leher boleh kasi betul ah?” (can I snap your neck?)

I nodded and before I could add “go ahead”, I heard a “kerraakkkkk” as he gave a quick jerk with both his palms placed firmly on my face. Wow! I felt like a new man.

At RM10 for the haircut as well as neck and back massage and head re-alignment experience, it was definitely money was well-spent.

Sup Torpedo and Mama-san

After the long day, it was time to reward myself with a hot bowl of Sup Torpedo (bull’s penis soup) in the backlane of Jalan Wong Ah Fook. It’s usually quite safe to sit down for a meal here but the faint-hearted should stay clear as things can get rough at times.

I was told that the best sup stall was located behind the Hong Leong Bank. Daud Sup Kambing lived up to its reputation.

I settled for a bowl of sup torpedo (RM6), downing it with roti bengali before exchanging views with the stall owner on the bull’s endowment and why men love sup torpedo. He told me that Singaporeans often frequent his stall.

The backlane is also famous for street food. Although Johor Baru pales in comparison to Penang in terms of quality and standard, some of the food here can give the hawkers up north a run for their money.

With a full stomach, the walk back to the hotel in the bank district was a breeze. Along the five-foot way here, you often come across women seated near staircases.

Be warned: Pay no attention to them. If you are a male and walking alone, they will call out “lai, lai, lai…” (come, come, come). DO NOT look at them. Establish eye contact and you’ll find yourself in hot water. These women are members of the oldest profession in the world.

After a report I had done some years ago on their manner of soliciting business, they are now infamously known as Lai-Lai Girls.

At that time, I was doing my rounds in Jalan Wong Ah Fook when I was grabbed by an elderly woman and pushed into a girlie barber shop. Caught unawares, I decided to make a break for it. What followed after happened real fast and I finally freed myself after handing over a small sum of money for having “peeked” at a group of middle-aged prostitutes in the barber shop.

Unpleasant experiences aside, one has got to love JB for its amazing number of hypermarkets. At a single glance, you will find Giant, Carrefour and the Jaya Jusco chain. There are more hypermarkets in JB than in any other town in the State, thanks to our neighbours from across the causeway. An estimated 80,000 vehicles from JB go through the Woodlands Customs and Immigration complex daily and the figure goes up during the holiday season. Imagine how much business is done if every vehicle has just one bag full of groceries?

By SAM CHEONG

http://www.nst.com.my/Current_News/TravelTimes/article/ShortbreakEcozone/20071127090813/Article/index_html

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Dedicated to local bargains

On a shopping trip in Malacca, PEGGY LOH is thrilled to find a section of a modern, air-conditioned mall set aside for local snacks and handicraft

I WALKED past brightly-lit shops in Dataran Pahlawan Melaka Megamall and was drawn to attractive displays of international renowned and homegrown labels.

As I turned a corner, I was attracted to a colourful archway that marked the entrance to the Heritage Gallery. I was impressed that the mall in Bandar Hilir has dedicated a section to merchandise that reflects Malacca’s rich cultural heritage. After all, a visit to Malacca would not be complete without buying some local delicacies to take home.

I could hardly contain my excitement at the sight of gula melaka, cincaluk, pineapple tarts, belacan and beautiful batik. These and other traditional favourites used to be available at a labyrinth of outdoor stalls in Bandar Hilir.

But with the Heritage Gallery, the hot and humid outdoor shopping experience is now a thing of the past. I can now shop for the same foodstuff and handicrafts in air-conditioned comfort.

Bargains Galore

Surrounded by a riot of colours and varieties, I was truly spoilt for choice. The merchants were friendly and helpful, ready to show off their goods, telling me they would offer a better bargain if I bought in bulk!

The display of goods was definitely tempting but I tried hard to remain focused on what I really wanted. With a trip planned to visit India soon, I was sure my foreign friends would appreciate our versatile sarongs. So I checked out Made-In-Malaysia batik sarongs to bring along as gifts.

As I made my choices, I reminded myself to thicken my skin to haggle and bargain until we struck a mutually agreeable deal!

After hours of browsing and bargaining, I left laden with bottles of cincaluk, packets of fragrant belacan, fish and vegetable crackers, souvenir T-shirts and fridge magnets, a woven handbag, a dozen batik sarongs and packs of gula melaka (palm sugar). How I wished I were an octopus so that I would have more hands to hold my shopping!

Where It’s At

The Heritage Gallery is located in Zone C, Lower Ground Floor of Dataran Pahlawan Melaka Megamall, Jalan Merdeka in Bandar Hilir.

By PEGGY LOH

http://www.nst.com.my/Current_News/TravelTimes/article/ShoppingGourmetTrail/20071127092908/Article/index_html

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A rockin’ good holiday

If you are a Top of the Pops sort of person, you’ll want to check out the Hard Rock Hotel Pattaya.

If you enjoy being treated like a celebrity or, more precisely, a rock star, then a stay at the four-star, 320-room Hard Rock Hotel (HRH) Pattaya is just the thing for you.

Here hotel guests are known as “stars” while their children are Lil’ Rockers. True to its Love All Serve All slogan, HRH makes everyone feel welcome whether they be singletons, couples or families with young kids.

Taking pride of place is the Hard Rock Hall of Fame located in the lobby. It showcases priceless pop-rock collectibles belonging to past and present stars like Frank Zappa, Elton John, Elvis Presley, Bee Gees, The Beatles, Madonna, Fleetwood Mac, James Brown and Michael Jackson.

This is one resort where you can boast of having “slept” with famous rock ‘n’ roll personalities, since the rooms have beds with oversized headboards featuring The Beatles, Elvis Presley and David Bowie and more.

Those staying in the Composer Suite on the Kings Club Floors (executive floors named after BB King and Elvis “The King” Presley) can expect perks accorded to superstars – personalised check-in and express check-out at the plush Kings Club Lounge, complimentary made-to-order breakfasts, all-day refreshments and evening cocktails, and free broadband Internet access.

Our Composer Suite gave us a panoramic view of the Gulf of Siam from the balcony, and we felt like bona fide stars.

Besides the luxuriously roomy bed and quirky rock ‘n’ roll-themed amenities, the spacious suite comes with two TVs, in-room CD and iPod music players, and “plug-and-play” broadband internet access.

Our favourite facility has to be the 2,000 sq m, free-form pool, which is open daily from 7am until 10pm. My Lil’ Rocker made quite a splash in the massive beach-sand swimming pool, thanks to the popular water slide.

There are also several poolside cabanas for rent – these are especially popular with guests wanting a body massage and those planning to throw a small birthday bash for their little ones.

Fun-filled activities like aqua aerobics, water polo, golf swing, long jump and kayak-race are organised daily by the HRH Pattaya’s zany “rock agents” (basically staff in charge of the recreational programme) on duty. A note of warning though – forget about attempting risky stunts like dangerous dives, or you will be politely but firmly reprimanded.

Late Saturday afternoons, the HRH Pattaya hosts its weekly family foam party.

The fast and furious flow of thick, sudsy foam churned out from one end of the swimming pool guarantees tons of good, clean fun for the young and young-at-heart.

True to Pattaya “party central” status, non-staying guests are permitted entry into the adults-only Beach Foam-X bash from 9.30pm onwards on Saturdays.

When it comes to meals, the wide variety of Italian, French, Chinese, Japanese and American delights are licensed to thrill. Saturday nights are spiced up by the Starz Diner’s lavish buffet. The spread includes a whole spit-roasted pig, scrumptious barbecued seafood (rock lobsters, squid, prawns, mussels and fish) and tantalising Thai specialities – som tam (papaya salad) and noodles, grilled pork sausages and khaw niao mamuang (glutinous rice with coconut cream and sliced Thai mangoes).

The roast pork with its crackling skin and tender, juicy meat is a definite chart-topper when eaten with the Thai green chilli, garlic and ginger dip or the piquant chilli and tamarind sauce.

In addition, Lil’ Rockers will be delighted to find a mini kid-sized buffet offering delectable nibbles such as macaroni and cheese, hot dogs, sandwiches, chicken nuggets and fries, mini spaghetti bolognaise and other goodies.

The adjacent Hard Rock Café Pattaya is just the place to satisfy your cravings for hearty American-styled hamburgers, steaks, and barbecued pork ribs.

But should you be hankering for some Hainanese chicken rice or piquant Thai-inspired dishes, fret not – the expansive menu should keep you happy.

While waiting for your food to arrive, feast your eyes on the invaluable pop and rock memorabilia. The most expensive item here is a sleek electric guitar valued at US$7,500 that once belonged to 80s rock band, The Stray Cats.

Married couples who desire some time together would do well to pack their tykes off to the Lil’ Rock Club and head for the Hard Rock Spa. While you pamper yourselves, the kids can hone their artistic talents through activities like colouring, painting, paper crafts and jewellery-making. Or they could always indulge in videogames with the club’s Nintendo WII and Sony Playstation consoles.

Conveniently sited by the pool, the Hard Rock Spa offers a comprehensive selection of head-to-toe, beauty and wellness treatments. We recommend the therapeutic Thai massage to soothe stressed, knotted muscles and stiff, aching joints. Other treatments that will restore your equilibrium include scented flower baths, invigorating body scrubs and wraps, facials and scalp treatment, and five different massage therapies.

It was a rockin’ good way to wrap up our holiday jaunt at the Hard Rock Hotel Pattaya.

Quick Facts

How To Get There

Hard Rock Hotel Pattaya
429 Moo 9
Pattaya Beach Road
Cholburi 20150
Thailand

Reservations: +66 38 428 755

hardrockhotels.net

The Hard Rock Hotel Pattaya is 147km southeast of Bangkok. From the Suvarnabhumi airport, the drive takes 1½-2 hours depending on traffic conditions. Airport transfer to the hotel can be made at the point of reservation.

Accommodation

Superior rooms are available at US$167 (excluding taxes) while the 10 Composer Suites (family rooms) are priced at US$375 (minus taxes). For better savings and greater value packages, it is best to check with your travel agent or surf online for promotional deals at the airlines or hotel’s websites.

By ALICE CHING

http://thestar.com.my/lifestyle/story.asp?file=/2007/11/3/lifetravel/19326245&sec=lifetravel

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A city in the wilderness

The call of the wild beckons visitors to Dawson City in northwest Canada.

The road descends at the Alaska-Yukon border, after a journey of expansive views of mountain vistas along the winding road that is the Top of the World Highway. After a sharp turn, the fabled Yukon River emerges, and there, on the other side of the bank, is Dawson City.

Dawson “City” is a misnomer for it is a frontier town of saloons, churches, gambling houses and theatres along gravel streets. Wharves and warehouses line the riverbank.

A century ago when gold was discovered in the Klondike Valley in 1896, Dawson City was the Klondike Gold Rush boomtown which, in two short years, became the largest city in northwest Canada. It boasted telephone lines, running water, steamboat services, hotels,

theatres and dance halls . . . and Canada’s first licensed casino. It was the Paris of the North!

But in 1899, the gold rush was over. Thousands of people left town and the population of Dawson City dwindled. Only a few among the hordes of prospectors and rag-tag miners struck it rich – many died and many more left with shattered dreams.

The city in the wilderness was left to decline until the 1960s when Dawson City was declared a National Historic Site. Today, the number of visitors continues to grow due to the efforts of the Klondike Visitors Association, which works in partnership with many organisations to promote and preserve the history of the Klondike, making it a four-season destination.

In recent years, 6,000 people have been recorded to visit Dawson City each year. People from all over the world are lured here to witness the excitement of seeing where it all began.

The Tr’ondek Hwech’in, First Nations people, have inhabited the area where the Klondike River pours into the Yukon River around Dawson City for eons. They relied heavily on the salmon runs of the Yukon, hunted big game and moved to different areas of their land, according to the seasons.

At the time of the Klondike Gold Rush, the Tr’ondek (‘Klondike’ to English tongues which could not pronounce the word) Hwech’in were driven out and later relocated. During this period of turbulent change Chief Isaac, their leader, guided his people through the upheaval caused by the influx of newcomers and they continued to keep close ties with their land.

In 1998, following the structure set out in the Umbrella Final Agreement, the Tr’ondek Hwech’in signed their land claims. They have since been implementing their settlements through many initiatives and are actively involved in relearning their heritage, language, songs and dances and passing them on to their children.

The Danoj Zho Cultural Centre on the shore of the Yukon River serves as a focal point for their cultural revival. The encounter with the Tr’ondek Hwech’in was my first with First Nation people. Through this enlightening experience, I found that their very isolation creates an intense bond among the people who live in this wilderness.

Heritage icons

The other face of Dawson City is that of an authentic gold rush town with a full range of services. Many of its buildings are designated as national historical sites – in fact it’s a whole town of turn-of-the-century buildings. A walking tour is recommended in this town of eight avenues of gravel roads, intersected at intervals. Heritage icons, each with a past, greet you at every corner.

The Diamond Tooth Gerties is a world-famous gambling hall. Gambling was so intertwined with Dawson’s Gold Rush history that Diamond Tooth Gerties remains a permanent fixture of entertainment where patrons enjoy a beverage while playing blackjack, roulette and Texas Hold’em Poker. The nightlife is one of the most entertaining in the communities of the North. Visitors also come here to enjoy the energy-charged can-can dance.

Dawson City’s attractions offer a peek into the window of the working man’s club in the Red Feather Saloon. Stay and admire the SS Keno, the last sternwheeler to ply the Yukon River and watch a play at the Palace Grand Theatre. The Dawson City Museum which details the geologic and social development of the region, is not to be missed.

Listen to readings of Robert Service and Jack London, two of Yukon’s greatest writers who found not the legendary gold, but literary gold. Their prolific writings have immortalised the grit, heartache and golden dreams of the Klondike Gold Rush and, of people who, despite their vices, still managed to embody some authentic virtues of fortitude, hope and even romance.

While here, step back in time with a tour of the Klondike gold field. Placer gold is still being mined and the giant hulk of Dredge No. 4 is permanently anchored on Bonanza Creek to tell its tale.

Visitors may embark on the Klondike Trail of ‘98 on the meandering drive on the outskirts of Dawson City, past Carmacks, Pelly Crossing and the Five Finger rapids and imagine the hordes of bedraggled gold seekers on their quest of the elusive gold. Make a pit stop on the Midnight Dome for spectacular views of the midnight sun in June, or for an aerial view of the confluence of the Klondike and Yukon rivers. Dawson City grew up in the shadow of this scar-faced mountain.

Clean and comfortable accommodation in hotels and inns with free wi-fi, B & B, camp grounds for recreational vehicles are available, though reservation is required for the summer months.

Restaurants, cafés, delis or bakeries – they are all within easy access. We relished the great taste of the North at Klondike Kate’s and La Table on 5th in the Aurora Inn. Yukon salmon, Alaskan halibut and Arctic char abound in this region. Racks of ribs and salads complete the menu.

Try the flagship brands of the Yukon Brewing Company – Yukon Red, Yukon Gold and Chilkoot Lager – all of which have won Canadian and international awards.

The Klondike loop offers enough for a week’s stay – First Nations Tour, wilderness adventures, guided river expeditions, gold panning, sluicing and metal detecting, wildlife sighting, fishing and hunting small game.

Dawson City is also the gateway to the Dempster Highway, the world’s most unique route to the Arctic Circle, rewarding for its haunting landscapes between tundra, jagged peaks and colour-stained hills.

The call of the wild is still alive and echoing. Gold seekers still visit Dawson City for the gold in the Klondike gold fields while others come for the gold in the hearts of those who call Dawson City home. Some come for golden moments in the wild and yet others for the golden memories that will last a lifetime.

The region exerts a powerful attraction in drawing people . . . it evokes superlatives, causing many visitors to redefine their idea of wilderness. But the aspect of promise remains the most powerful and enduring appeal of the North. Maybe it’s based on the limitless sense of space and the way it overwhelms most of our trivial preoccupations, revealing what should really matter.

By CHUAH SIEW YEN

http://thestar.com.my/lifestyle/story.asp?file=/2007/11/3/lifetravel/19241327&sec=lifetravel

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Desert pleasures

Sun, sand and sea, plus waterfalls and wadi – there’s much more to Dubai than retail therapy.

When the world reads about the United Arab Emirates, it is – as Lonely Planet reminds us – usually in the sports pages. Dubai, the commercial hub of the Arab Gulf, has staked out its position as the sports and leisure capital of the Middle East.

Here you can try some uniquely Arabian experiences – camel riding, sailing a traditional dhow, wadi-bashing, sand-skiing or sand boarding.

Golfers tee off on lush fairways carved out of salt flats; fishing enthusiasts trawl the tepid waters for hamour, the giant grouper. As well as diving and snorkelling, other wild ‘n’ wet options include windsurfing, water-skiing, jet-skiing and paragliding.

Desert safaris

From Dubai, six-lane highways streak out across the bleached salt flats of the Gulf coast. As you turn inland, the sands steadily darken and shape themselves into sensuous dunes. The purple crags of the Hajar march across the horizon, separating blazing blue sky from brick-red sands.

On one 4WD excursion, we decided to take a short cut across a stretch of sand dunes. Soon we found ourselves in serious trouble. Wheel ruts led every which way between the dunes and although we could see the highway ahead – a row of radio masts silhouetted against the sky – the risks were too great to continue.

We turned back towards the mountains, losing several hours rather than fight those shifting sands.

Four-wheel-driving over the dunes is exhilarating, sometimes frightening – occasionally fatal. Correct braking and other techniques sometime fly in the face of instinct. Vehicles can be hired with or without drivers, although the costs – and the risks – can be high.

For the novice, there are many escorted safaris offering a more realistic alternative, ranging from half-day excursions to overnight camping safaris. Usually, this is the time to try sand-boarding.

Mountain mysteries

Many remote inland settlements, hot springs and even waterfalls in the Emirates are best reached by four-wheel-drive.

Wadi-bashing is popular with both residents and visitors. It’s basically exploring the wadis or dry stream beds, which spring to life after the winter rains. Uncharted tracks lead to panoramic vistas of contorted rock, villages abandoned by lost tribes, crumbling forts, rich fossil lodes and unexplored archaeological sites.

Unpredictable border posts are part of the fun.

Once inaccessible and unknown to most outsiders, the Hajar hold many secrets. From the border twin towns of Al Ain and Buraimi, these naked mountains stretch north along the border between the UAE and the Omani Sultan’s domains.

An hour east of Dubai, the five-star Hatta Fort Hotel provides an ideal base for off-road exploration and desert safaris. Further north, the hazy escarpment of the Musandam Peninsula, guardian of the Straits of Hormuz, lures the most adventurous explorers into a remote and rugged enclave of Oman.

Two hours’ run east of Dubai, the fishing town of Dibba faces the Indian Ocean. Beyond, the coastal plain soon gives way to a steep-walled wadi. We saw straggling goats grazing as ragged-clothed children emerged, waving, from small stone huts; progress was evidenced by the steel water tanks.

Soon the road climbed steeply into the mountains, the temperature gauge climbed as we switchbacked up to the top of the range. Contorted folds of rock were exposed like a textbook illustration. The aridity of these crags was emphasised by the dramatic stone-walled, terraced fields, climbing 1,000m up from the gorges and remarkable for their utter barrenness.

This was once the land of the Shihuh, an ancient people pre-dating the Arabs of the coastal towns. Most Shihuh have now been lured down to the coastal settlements by the promise of running water, schools, electricity and clinics; their former hamlets, terraced fields and stone towers untended under the pitiless sun.

We met a lone Shihuh who did not threaten us with his distinctive small axe but rather gestured politely for some water for his jerry can. Up here the greatest hazards are sunstroke, mechanical breakdown and the giant black-and-yellow hornets droning endlessly above our heads.

Descending from the main ridge, we finally reached the wide flat floor of the Wadi Bih. The red, green and white flag of the Sultanate of Oman fluttered above a crossroads border gate. Turned away from Omani territory, we turned west instead through the mouth of the Wadi and back into Emirates territory.

Camel racing and riding

A trip to the camel races, which take place on Thursday and Friday from October to April, is a must.

The jockeys are young boys, the mounts bred and nurtured as carefully as any equine bloodstock. A fairground atmosphere prevails with vendors offering blankets, rugs, beads and colourful camel trappings spread out on the ground.

Excitement becomes contagious as the owners urge the jockeys towards the finish line while trainers keep pace with the race as their 4WDs plough through the dust of the inside track.

Camel rides are part of some tours, or can be arranged separately through tour operators and hotels. So, why not climb aboard?

A foul, yellow stream spurted down a hairy leg. My steed boasted four gangling limbs, a single hump, and a sneering disdain for social niceties. I closed my eyes, quelled my sinking stomach and levered myself up onto his back.

Mount from the rear, swing up from the left stirrup . . . a moment of blind panic as the dromedary see-sawed up off its haunches, hoisting me skywards. What if it rears, panics, starts?

Just lean well back, ease your weight from buttock to buttock, sync to the loping gait and tune in to your guide. Easy! Are we there yet . . .?

Scuba diving and snorkelling

The waters around Dubai offer excitement for advanced divers, yet safe and economical for beginners; visibility is usually excellent. May to October is so warm that no wetsuits are needed and, thereafter, 3mm suits remain comfortable.

Padi-approved courses cater to all levels.

The best diving on the west coast is off Abu Dhabi, but go snorkelling or diving off the Indian Ocean coast to discover the UAE’s spectacular coastline, warm safe waters, prolific underwater life and fascinating coral reefs. Many submerged wrecks attract vivid tropical fish and make for fascinating diving.

From the resort hotels and dive centres at Khor Fakkan and Fujairah on the East Coast, sites like the popular “Snoopy Island”, off Al Aqqa Beach, are eminently accessible. Deeper, more challenging sites can be reached from Dibba.

(Search for dive locations at www.scubaspots.com)

Deep sea fishing

In the words of one blue water operator: “From September to April the shallow waters of the Gulf are alive with baitfish, behind them come shoals of sailfish, at times so numerous that it is possible to cast from a drifting boat. Fish over one hundred pounds are common . . .”

The warm, sheltered waters of the Arabian Gulf attract kingfish, jack, tuna, red snapper and rock cod. Substantial species like the local hamour, barracuda and shark are also prize catches.

Half- or full-day trips are available to the best fishing grounds which usually enjoy calm conditions.

The fishing season runs from October to May, which passes for winter in Dubai. Slightly shorter, the sailfish season runs from late September to late April.

Getting there

Many carriers service Dubai including Emirates and Gulf Air.

VISA Malaysian passport holders receive visa on arrival.

WEATHER It is sunny all year round, mild from November-April and scorching hot from July-August.

TRAVEL TIP If possible, avoid coming during the holy month of Ramadan.

By PHILIP GAME

http://thestar.com.my/lifestyle/story.asp?file=/2007/11/3/lifetravel/17637900&sec=lifetravel

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