Tour of Turtle Island

Pulau Satang Besar is one of four islands in Sarawak where turtles come ashore to lay their eggs and the elusive Irrawaddy dolphins frolic in the waters nearby, writes ALAN TEH LEAM SENG

FANCY a holiday amongst marine turtles and Irrawaddy dolphins as they swim playfully between fishing vessels? And up above, flocks of flying terns give visitors a noisy welcome.

Well, if this is your cup of tea, head for Pulau Satang Besar, part of the Talang Satang National Park that comprises four islands on the south-western coast of Sarawak including part of the surrounding Damai and Santubong coastline and sea.

The other islands are Pulau Talang Besar and Pulau Talang Kecil located off the coast of Sematan as well as Pulau Satang Kecil near Santubong.

Covering 19.4 sq kms, Talang Satang National Park was established to conserve the marine turtle population in Sarawak. The four islands, collectively referred to as Turtle Islands, contribute to over 95 per cent of the recorded turtle landings in the State.

During your 30-minute boat ride to Pulau Satang Besar, don’t forget to occasionally peep over the side of the boat and marvel at the beautiful colonies of hard and soft corals. These shallow reefs provide shelter and resting grounds for the marine turtles and are important fish breeding areas too.

According to Sarawak Forestry Department’s conservation contractor Nulit Aban, tourists are encouraged to visit Pulau Satang Besar during the peak turtle-nesting season from April to September.

The predominant species is the Green Turtle or penyu agar (Chelonia mydas), contributing more than 80 per cent of all recorded landings while the Hawksbill Turtle or penyu sisik (Eretmochelys imbricata) comes in a distant second at less than 20 per cent. The rarer Olive Ridley Turtle or penyu lipas (Lepidochelys olivacea) only comes to nest in the rainy season from November to December.

“Of the four Turtle Islands, Pulau Talang Besar has consistently recorded the highest daily turtle landings; sometimes more than 30 come in to nest in a single night. Based on our experience, most turtles come to nest at night during the high tide. We have to ensure there is a complete darkness so as not to disturb these creatures,” says Nulit.

As the islands are protected areas, visitors are only allowed to cruise around them. However, they can visit designated spots on Pulau Satang Besar.

Apart from watching turtles, tourists to the Damai Santubong area can also spot Irrawaddy dolphins (Orcaella brevirostris), which are considered very elusive and watch flocks of playful terns nesting noisily on a rocky outcrop that locals refer to as Bird Island.

Sarawak Tourism Board has embarked on a programme to promote marine mammal tourism. Incidentally, Sarawak is the first and only destination in the country to offer commercial dolphin watching tours which began in earnest in 1998. Last year, about 1,500 people, mostly foreign tourists, went on dolphin watching tours.

Despite its highly endangered status, the Irrawaddy dolphin seems to thrive here. It inhabits mainly estuaries and coastal areas, and researchers have determined that its behaviour and lifestyle are distinctly different from those of the out-going pelagic (open ocean) dolphins.

According to guide Farrah Marcel Ruby of CPH Travel Agencies (Sarawak) Sdn Bhd, tourists need to patiently scan the waters near the fishing boats, as these mammals appear in a quick flash and then disappear below the water again.

“You will see the sunlight reflected off their backs as they surface for food or to breathe. A good pair of binoculars will also come in handy. The best times to view these graceful creatures are either in the early morning or evening,” she added.

For more information, contact Sarawak Forestry Department Tel: 082-348 001, Fax: 082-488 654, toll-free line: 1800 88 2526, website: www.sarawakforestry.com, email: info@sarawakforestry.com or contact National Parks Booking Office, Kuching (Visitor Information Centre) Tel: 082-248 088 or fax: 082-248 087.

Conservation Efforts

Three turtle species that frequent the beaches here are the Green Turtle (Chelonia mydas), Hawksbill Turtle (Eretmochelys imbricata) and Olive Ridley Turtle (Lepidochelys olivacea).

There have also been recorded landings of other rare species such as the Leatherback Turtle or penyu belimbing (Dermochea coriacea) and Loggerhead Turtle or penyu kepala besar (Caretta caretta).

The islands are within a nine-kilometre radius from the shore and are under the jurisdiction of Sarawak’s Forestry Department which is empowered by the State’s Turtle Protection Act (1962).

Seven other turtle sanctuaries exist in Sarawak, namely Tanjung Datu National Park, Teluk Melano, Samunsam Wildlife Sanctuary, Similajau National Park in Bintulu, Kampung Puguh, Tanjong Batu in Samatan and Miri.

An on-going study to tag and observe the nesting habits of the Green Turtle is being conducted by the Sarawak Forestry Department. It includes research on the population sizes of the different species endemic to the state, nesting frequency, interval between nesting periods, growth rate and choice of nesting sites.

Since 1996, studies were made on the nesting habits of the different species, tagging individual animals, measuring their carapace length and width, measuring the diameter and weight of the eggs, recording the total number of eggs in each nest, the depth of the nest (only for those that are determined as an ‘in situ’ hatching site) and observations on the level of damage to the environment that would prove hazardous to the turtles.

Once the babies hatch, the carapace length and width of each turtle as well as its weight are recorded. This way, the authorities hope they can protect and ensure a healthy turtle population.

The conservation programme involves the local community proactively. The government recognises the rights and age-old practices of the ancestral landowners, villagers and fishermen, so the Forestry Department works closely with these communities to ensure a sustainable future for everyone in the state.

Things To Do

Visits are confined to the main island of Pulau Satang Besar but as not all parts of the island are open for exploring, guests are advised to remain within the designated visitor’s lodge and hatchery supervised by Forestry wardens. The information centre in the lodge provides an insight into the turtle conservation efforts.

Staying overnight is prohibited for fear of tourists disturbing the turtles that come ashore to nest.

Bring along ample drinking water and food as there are no canteens on the island and leave with whatever you’ve brought to the island. Littering is a strict no-no.

Although the island is steep, densely forested and unsuitable for trekking, there is a wide expanse of sandy beach stretching across the southern part where coconut palms that fringe the coastline give it a “tropical island” feel.

When you walk along the shore, you can see the fascinating coral reefs where the water is crystal clear and multi-coloured reef fish swim in abundance.

Snorkelling and scuba diving are allowed within the designated zone but divers must be accompanied at all times by an approved dive guide. Prior arrangements must be made should tourists want to rent tanks and other diving equipment from the Forestry Department’s operations office on the island.

It is important to note that the seabed off Pulau Satang Besar slopes to a depth of 12 metres and visibility averages about five to 10 metres. Watch out for hard and soft coral formations, sea fans, feather stars and colourful fish. Also keep your eyes peeled for the occasional appearance of Green Turtles.

The rest of the Park that encompasses the areas within the 2.8km of Pulau Talang Besar, Pulau Talang Kecil, Pulau Satang Kecil and the Ara-Banun Wildlife Sanctuary are off limits though the Forestry Department does entertain requests from researchers, students, conservation organisations and participants of the Sea Turtle Volunteer Programme to conduct approved activities.

Getting There

Pulau Satang Besar is a 30-minute speedboat ride from either Damai Beach, Permai Rainforest Resort, Sarawak Boat Club Jetty or Telaga Air Jetty along the Damai and Santubong coastline. There is no regular boat service but you can make prior bookings with a number of Kuching-based tour operators.

The Damai Beach and Santubong area is about 35km from Kuching. Taxi operators charge RM35 (one-way) while airport charges to Damai is RM47. The many resort hotels provide shuttle buses to and from Kuching. Guests pay a flat rate of RM10 (adult) and RM5 (children) each way.

Where To Stay

There are many resorts along the Damai and Santubong coastline facing the Turtle Islands. Among these are:

Santubong Kuching Resort
Tel: 082-846 888
Email: skresort@po.jaring.my

Permai Rainforest Resort
Tel: 082-846 487
Email: reserve@permairainforest.com
Website: www.permairainforest.com

Holiday Inn Resort Damai Lagoon
Tel: 082-846 900
Email: hirdlbsc@po.jaring.my

Tour Agencies

A number of tour agents provide tours to the Turtle Islands and other nearby attractions such as Bird Island and Irrawaddy dolphin sighting.

CPH Travel Agencies (Sarawak) Sdn Bhd
Tel: 082-243 708/242 289/414 921
Email: cphtrvl@streamyx.com
Website: www.cphtravel.com

Borneo Interland Travel Sdn Bhd
Tel: 082-413 595/426 328
Email: bitravel@tm. net.my
Website: www.bitravel.com.my

Borneo Fairyland Travel & Tour Sdn Bhd
Tel: 082-420 194/082-420 195
Email: bftravel@tm. net.my
Website: www.borneofairyland.tripod.com

http://www.nst.com.my/Weekly/Travel/article/FeatureStory/20060905102054/Article/index_html

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Destination Cocoa Town

Chocolate everything, eco tourism and underwater wonders. Tawau offers all these and more, writes SHANTI GUNARATNAM

TAWAU’S claim to fame is cocoa. The town is dotted with many cocoa plantations that have opened their doors to tourists who are keen to learn more about cocoa.

If you are a cocoa lover, this is the place for you. One can indulge in anything made out of cocoa here – from sweets and drinks to chocolates and biscuits.

Not only that but you can have seafood cooked with cocoa too!

Take your pick of fish steamed in cocoa, deepfried prawn and cocoa fritters, savoury rice porridge with cocoa, stirfried vegetables with, what else but cocoa? The list goes on and on.

If you are a dessert lover, try Tawau’s famous sweet cocoa porridge that’s served with hard boiled eggs.

A destination that’s becoming very popular is the Teck Guan Cocoa Village. It’s actually a 1,000-acre cocoa plantation.

Here, visitors are taken on a two-hour guided tour to see how cocoa is cultivated, harvested, fermented and dried before it is sent to the factory.

From there, tourists are taken to the magnificent waterfalls (also known as Cocoa Culture Spring), at the village for a picnic or afternoon lunch. Nature lovers will feel very much at home at the Cocoa Culture Spring which is surrounded by lush greenery. The village has two main waterfalls and four mini cascades.

Teck Guan Holdings Sdn Bhd senior administrator Ivy Yap says the village is one of the earliest plantations to cultivate cocoa in Tawau where the volcanic soil is most suitable for this crop.

Tawau is one of the top cocoa producers in the world along with the Ivory Coast, Ghana and Indonesia.

“Many visitors think cocoa is produced from coffee beans and are often surprised when we show them the cocoa tree and fruit,” says Yap.

“Even Malaysians don’t know this and a visit to the village has turned out to be an educational trip for many. We are still in the midst of working out the nitty-gritty details of tour packages we intend to offer. That is why we have yet to launch the village as a big tourism product,” she adds with a laugh.

Then, for more on cocoa, head straight for the Teck Guan Cocoa Museum, where you can learn all about cocoa processing and end-product manufacturing.

Learn how cocoa butter is produced and exported to world famous chocolatiers including the company that produces Godiva chocolates.

“When you take a bite of expensive chocolates, don’t forget that the cocoa butter actually comes from Tawau. Cocoa doesn’t contain caffeine and is actually good for you.”

In ancient times, it was only the well-heeled high society that consumed products made from cocoa but today, chocolate is for everyone.

At the museum, visitors will also be shown how to prepare snacks using cocoa products. They can also purchase the products on sale.

For more details and organised tours of both the village and museum, call 089-772 277 ext 2254.

Balung River Eco Resort

Next to the cocoa village is the Balung River Eco Resort, owned and run by Sabah’s former Chief Minister Datuk Harris Salleh.

The resort about 15 to 20 minutes away along a gravel path from the main road. But the bumpy ride is worth it as the views are truly magnificent.

In short, it is a different world out there. Surrounded by so much greenery – both forest and plantation – the resort offers 73 chalet-type rooms for those seeking solitude and peace.

Here, the sun sets about 6.30pm and rises at about 5.30am. Mobile phone coverage is poor and you can only find one television set in the reception area. Electricity is available only from dusk till dawn.

Nobody minds should you walk in for dinner or breakfast in scruffy shorts and tee-shirts.

If you need company, seek out the extremely knowledgeable resort and plantation general manager K. Arunagiri Nathan and his efficient staff who will take you on tours to the plantation and fruit farms.

Arunagiri will painstakingly explain every plant, fruit and herb that grows here. The eight-year-old resort is nestled in a large plantation that grows coffee, oil palm, cocoa, teak, misai kuching (said to be a blood purifier and good for treating diabetes and gout) cardamom, cinnamon, lemon grass and dukong.

Arunagiri says tourists usually spend their time jungle trekking, swimming or walking around the resort.

The resort also produces palm sugar and syrup which are exported to Japan. “The syrup, similar to maple syrup, can be eaten with pancakes, pudding and bread. Tourists who come here simply love the syrup which we sell for RM10 a bottle,” says Arunagiri.

Roach Reefs Resort

While Tawau is well-known for its eco-tourism products, it is also becoming popular for diving activities, especially at Roach Reefs Resort, just an hour away by speed boat from the yacht club marine.

The resort is on a man-made island surrounded by emerald green waters where one can go scuba diving and snorkelling from sunrise till sunset. It’s popular with foreigners, especially Germans, who spend up to three weeks here.

Marine life is thriving. You can see dolphins, whales and sharks, which are a common sight for two months beginning September.

On a good day – in fact, almost every day here is a good day – the resort offers three boat dives and two shore dives, all under the watchful eyes and guidance of master divers and dive instructors.

Managed by Japanese Kenichi Obata, the resort has only 11 chalets, all twin-sharing and a water cottage.

“Some of our guests come here for fishing and we take them to a popular spot about two kilometres away. The waters surrounding the resort is off limits for fishing,” says Kenichi.

Where To Stay

Hotel Emas, a member of the Teck Guan Group of Companies, offers rooms from RM200 nett for deluxe queen/twin to RM380 for the executive suites. Rooms on the premier floor start at RM280 nett and goes up to RM1,600 nett.

Hotel Emas is located in the central business district. Call 089-762 000/fax 089-763 569 or 089-774 626.

Standard and deluxe rooms at the Balung River Eco Resort are priced at RM110 and RM130 per room per night with the VIP suites going for RM170.

The economy standard room for four persons per room is RM120 and for eight persons per room, it is RM180.

The chalets, which have four rooms and can accommodate 20 persons, are available for RM450 to RM550.

For reservations, call 089-761 339/fax: 089-763 637.

Rooms at Roach Reefs Resort are inclusive of food and diving activities. Prices start at RM1,200 ex-Tawau. Call 089-779 332 or fax 089-757 135.

Where To Eat

The Hotel Emas Cacao Palace restaurant serves “cocoa dishes”, steamboat buffet, Malaysian, Chinese and Western cuisine.

The Balung River Eco Resort prepares healthy meals with vegetables and herbs grown on its premises, fish, chicken and seafood. Food can be prepared to order.

Otherwise, Tawau town has its fair share of eateries serving fresh seafood.

Getting There

From Kota Kinabalu, Tawau is accessible by road via the East-West and East Coast highways. The journey should take about eight hours. For a speedier alternative, regular flights from Kota Kinabalu to Tawau take only 45 minutes. From Kuala Lumpur, tourists can hop on AirAsia flights which flies to Tawau twice a day. The familiariasation trip to Tawau was organised by AirAsia and Sabah Tourism.

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Langkawi, naturally

Where can you go to listen to the mating call of crickets, watch crabs making sand marbles or breakfast with dusky leaf monkeys? ALAN TEH LEAM SENG writes

WHAT do you do if you’re stung by a jellyfish? Make your way to the nearest clinic or hospital while writhing in pain along the way?

Well, actually help is at hand and it’s very much closer than you think. The sap from the sea morning glory (Ipomoea pescaprae) or tapak kuda, a plant that can be found at most beaches, can relieve the painful sting effectively and quickly.

These creepers, a close relative of the sweet potato, kangkung and the terrestrial morning glory also plays a part in preventing beach erosion and stabilising the beach sand. Want to find out more interesting things about Nature? Who knows when such information can come in useful?

Pulau Langkawi has much to offer in terms of its natural wealth and Burau Bay, with its lush green tropical forest, is one place where you can uncover many of Mother Nature’s secrets.

There, you can make Mutiara Burau Bay Beach Resort your “camp” from which you can step into a more captivating realm, one filled with plants and animals of all shapes and sizes.

As you make your way to your very own cabana by the sea, various sights, smells and sounds will stimulate your senses. Just look around and you may spot a hornbill flitting between the trees or a sand lizard ducking into the safety of its hidey-hole.

There is so much to see here, so don’t spend your holiday in the air-conditioned comfort of your chalet.

All you need to unearth Nature’s gems are a keen sight and an observant mind. There is always something different to look at in every nook and cranny.

In the morning, you will most probably see the dusky leaf monkey (Presbytis obscura) or lutong up close. This primate has become a daily attraction for guests who breakfast at the Dayang Cafe. At the crack of dawn, many of the lutong will emerge from the forest fringes surrounding the resort and “monkey” around at the cafe and lobby area until noon. They are only absent when it rains.

Resort general manager Maxson Abdullah says that every effort should be made to protect the fragile environment.

“The resort conducts ecological and environmental studies right here at Burau Bay for local secondary students. Nearly all schools in Langkawi have participated in our nature awareness programme and the students have had a truly wonderful time discovering Langkawi’s natural wonders,” he says.

A walk along the beach will reveal the abodes of creatures that few city dwellers come across in their everyday life, like crabs. There are sand bubbler crabs, moon crabs and ghost crabs. Keep your eyes trained on the ground and you’d soon spot one scurrying across the sand.

The sand bubbler crab (Scopimera inflata) or ketam pasir is responsible for forming little balls of sand which it leaves behind after sifting it through for organic dentrital matter. It prefers sandier areas and have numerous stiff hairs located on the legs. Being a detritus feeder, the sand bubbler carves out grooves in the sand as it chomps along, quickly sifting out detritus particles hidden in the sand with its highly adapted mouth parts, leaving distinctive, straight trails of neatly rolled up sand marbles.

This crab is an important link in the food chain as it feeds on organic matter in the sand and in turn, is food for other animals and birds.

If you wait patiently by one of these burrows with sand pellets surrounding it, you may be lucky enough to see its resident making its signature sand pellets!

The adventurous can go on the Pulau Anak Burau Jungle Trek challenge. Located on a small island directly opposite the resort, it is a 60m jungle trail specially marked by the resort’s recreational department for its guests.

“It is safe and the trip will prove to be both memorable and educational. The trip is free and is exclusively available to our guests only,” says Maxson.

This tiny island is about five hectares in size and consists of untouched primary forest. Various animals, insects and plants make their home here but there are no snakes, so herpetology buffs will have to look elsewhere.

There are ample, easy-to-understand signboards explaining the various life forms you may find along the trail. The resort’s eco-marshals patrol the island regularly to ensure the safety of holidaymakers.

Before you embark on your trip however, please check with the resort’s recreation department for the tide table. There are two low tides daily. One is usually during daylight hours. Since low tides vary in their depth, it is important to pick the lowest possible when the entire inter tidal zone will be exposed. As a rule of thumb, try to reach the area well before the low tide and then follow the tide down to its lowest level, where the conditions will stay that way for one to two hours.

You can walk safely through the shallow channel separating the resort and the island during low tides. It is important to note the time of the next turn of tide or else you may be stranded there. It is also good to inform the resort management of your trip. You must wear proper trekking shoes, bring along bottled water and if you like, a notebook to record your observations. Avoid slippers or footwear with smooth soles. You can also rent a fishing rod complete with bait at the recreation department. The island is known to offer great fishing. Wearing of gloves is recommended when examining sharp rocks or shells.

The resort’s human resource executive cum resident naturalist Mohd Nafizal Abu Bakar advises visitors to refrain from disturbing the delicate ecosystem on the island. “If you move a rock to see the creatures underneath it, remember to turn it back or else the creatures will surely perish from exposure,” he cautions.

Burau Bay has its fair share of flora and most of them are useful to Man either in the form of food or as a cure for various ailments.

“Take the humble Indian beech or mempari (Pongamia pinnata) for example. Who would have thought that it is a powerful antidote for poisons, able to induce abortions and even cure heatiness,” says Nafizal adding that most medicine men use it as part of their arsenal of cures.

Nafizal recommends that visitors take a pleasant walk along the seashore, as it is a very dynamic environment. “During high tide, the shore is covered by seawater and becomes part of the sea but when the tide goes down, the shore is exposed and for several hours it is reclaimed by the land,” he says.

At low tide, it becomes a rich source of food for those who know where to look. The edible Neritia sp or mata lembu is found in abundance.

Local boys Fandi Rozaki from Belibis and Khairul Naqiudin Saimen from Padang Matsirat, both 11, often collect this shellfish amongst the exposed rocks during low tide. They say it takes less than an hour for them to collect a plastic bagful each. Fandi says the shellfish is delicious when boiled and dipped in sauce.

Before calling it a day at your chalet, switch off the lights and be serenaded to sleep by the calls of the Andaman Island spotted day gecko (Phelsuma sp.), a nocturnal reptile that feeds on insects and smaller lizards. In the daytime, look in dark corners and who knows, you may be rewarded by looking at the gecko right in the eye.

SOME INHABITANTS OF BURAU BAY

Cicada: Listen to the male cicada making the loudest sound in the insect kingdom. The mating sound can be heard as far as 440 metres, an amazing feat considering these invertebrates are only eight cms in length. Cicadas live in trees and have a lifespan of slightly more than a month.

Squirrel: Common in Burau Bay Resort, squirrels can be seen leaping from tree to tree. Occasionally it can be an uninvited guest in your chalet, looking for food remnants. Its efficient bushy tail is often used as a rudder for balance, a parachute during long leaps, a blanket for warmth especially during cold nights and also to warn others of its kind of impending danger.

Ghost crab (Ocypode ceratophthalma) or ketam angin: This common crab digs prominent holes and hides in burrows in the high supralittoral sand zone. It can absorb water from wet sand by means of special hair located at the base of its legs. They scavenge and hunt small animals and shellfish. They are fast runners with excellent stereoscopic vision.

Moon crab (Matuta lunaris) or ketam bulan: This omnivorous crustacean species is common in tidal sand flats to muddy open areas where they burrow and hide just below the surface during the day. As a result, they are rarely seen during the day. They are edible.

Common butterfly lizard (Leiolepis belliana) or biawak pasir: A burrowing species found in abundant in Burau Bay, it is characterised by its greenish-grey colour, patterned with yellowish spots and handsome black and orange markings along the flank. More often than not it can be found basking in the sun on the beach. If you spot one, remain extremely still or else it will be alarmed and quickly return to its burrow.

GETTING THERE

By Air: Langkawi consists of 104 islands, many of which are small and uninhabited. It is referred to as Junk Ceylon by ancient British mariners. It is about 50 minutes flying time from Kuala Lumpur where the national carrier, Malaysian Airlines and AirAsia make several daily flights. There are also several scheduled international direct flights from various countries. The airport is 20 kms from Kuah and 10 kms to Mutiara Burau Bay Beach Resort.

By Road: Five to six hours drive from Kuala Lumpur to Kuala Kedah while the journey to Kuala Perlis is about seven hours. High-speed ferries operate from Kuala Kedah and Kuala Perlis throughout the day. There are also regular ferry services from Penang as well as from neighbouring Satun in south Thailand. Once on the island, getting to Mutiara Burau Bay Beach Resort is easy as there are many taxis and cars for hire. Just follow road signs.

By Rail: Keretapi Tanah Melayu (KTM) provides a comfortable and and fast rail service through its Express Langkawi to Alor Star (Kedah) and Arau (Perlis). From there, just hop on a taxi or bus to either Kuala Kedah or Kuala Perlis and board a ferry to Langkawi.

ACCOMMODATION

Mutiara Burau Bay Beach Resort offers comfortable cabana-style accommodation. For reservation and information, call 04-959 1061; fax 04-959 1172; or access www.mutiarahotels.com

PACKAGES

Burau Getaway: RM438 nett for 3D/2N stay in a superior cabana with garden view

Romance in Burau: RM438 nett for 3D/2N stay in a studio cabana with garden view, inclusive of candle-light dinner at Seashells Beach Cafe, bouquet of flowers for the bride and airport transfer.

Fun at Burau by the Bay: From RM188+.

All packages come with daily buffet breakfast at the Dayang Cafe, welcome fruit basket and welcome drink at the Sampan Bar, complimentary coffee/tea making facilities in the room and late checkout until 2pm (subject to availability).

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Pedal power in the highlands

If you think the mountain air invigorating, try cycling along dirt trails in Cameron Highlands to truly feel energised

CYCLING 48km along a narrow, dirt road up in Cameron Highlands may not be everyone’s idea of fun at the country’s premier hill resort.

But it is a thrill for 12 members of XL Mountain Bike Club who first drove from Kuala Lumpur to Ringlet with their bicycles aboard. The bicycle trail starts at Habu, a few kilometres walk away.

Dubbed the “Heaven in Hell-Jim Thompson Trail” the endurance ride goes anti-clockwise from Habu to the Boh Tea Museum.

The nine-hour ride scales up (and down) the dirt road, passing through Orang Asli settlements, lines of tea bushes, vegetable and flower farms and dense secondary jungle.

There are no designated stops. The cyclists stop as and when they need to rest tired muscles or for a simple lunch of sandwiches, buns, power bars and chocolates — from their back-packs. Even water is brought along, in a three-litre camel bag.

After their first ride in January, the group went back for another expedition in February. This time they went clockwise along the same route, which proved to be even tougher.

An avid cyclist, photographer Roslin Mat Tahir joined the group to take the route less travelled.

The verdict? He is definitely hooked. The group can count on him to join them in their coming expeditions!

http://www.nst.com.my/Weekly/Travel/article/FeatureStory/20070327095801/Article/index_html

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ungle adventure within reach

Plenty of jungle adventure, river rafting, a visit to a Orang Asli village and getting close to butterflies and the Rafflesia. These are all within reach from the North-South Expressway near Gopeng, Perak. SHARON NG KOOI KIN comes away impressed

WE were promised a weekend of adventure in Gopeng and what an adventure it turned out to be!
Shooting the rapids, Rafflesia flowers, king butterflies, entering an aboriginal world and still there was much more to see and do.

Nature Resort
Just 45 minutes’ drive from Ipoh, the Gopeng Nature Resort is the open sesame into a world of high adventure. It is a one-stop centre for water sports and everything an outdoor lover looks for. Another plus point is its easy accessibility, making it a truly attractive holiday destination.
Proprietor of GNR is Violet Aw, 49, who runs the place with a young Orang Asli guide, Ah Ha, and the Riverbug crew, an affiliated white water rafting company.
Ah Ha’s brother and his family are the resident caretakers living a stone’s throw away. With such a well organised set-up, visitors to the river resort are assured of a variety of activities to suit individual preferences and levels of physical fitness.
The nature resort sits on jungle land that is about the size of 10 football fields. Durian trees dot the area, located in Kampong Geruntom, about 10 minutes’ drive from Gopeng.
The resort is just a few minutes’ walk from Sungai Kampar — the launching pad for all the recreational water-based activities of the area.
The land belongs to the father of Lee Tuck Lup, Aw’s late husband, who passed away in 2003, about a year after the opening of the resort.
It was Lee’s dream to build a nature resort after being seduced by the magic of the rainforest. He saw the potential for a river resort, surrounded by endless jungle trekking trails, a rippling river with a fabulous waterfall and tumbling rapids.
The nearby Semai Orang Asli villages, with more than 1,000 residents and unique flora and fauna species sought after by nature lovers and scientists from all over the world, were also other attractions.

Into the jungle
How can you resist trudging into the jungle to view the biggest flower in the world? Knowledgeable native guides who speak English and Malay take you to the very spot where you can actually stick your nose into the heart of a Rafflesia bloom, which is about the length of an arm, and find out for yourself whether this flower really emits a rotten meat smell.
Ulu Geroh is made up of three Orang Asli settlements, strung along a bumpy dirt road, 20 minutes by 4WD from GNR.
The journey to the Rafflesia site is another two-hour return trek from the village, following a mountain stream, then up a steep slope.
Along the way watch out for the daddy long legs stick insects, several species of crested lizards which look like miniature dragons and weird insects like the phasmids, often mistaken for green thorny fruits.
This route has been ominously named Pacat Trail for a good reason. So come prepared with leech socks.
All thoughts of leeches will fly from your head when you come upon a Rafflesia in bloom. Consider yourself lucky if you manage to see one, since these flowers usually last for only three or four days before rotting into an ugly black mess.
In my mind’s eye are two blooms I saw recently. There they were in all their glory, one partially opened and the other in full bloom but slightly off its prime. The half-metre-wide flower, looking like a red sunhat with white polka dots, is a Rafflesia cantleyi, the only species of Rafflesia found in Ulu Geroh, and endemic to Peninsular Malaysia.
There are claims that there may be two more species in the vicinity which encompasses the 68,000ha Bukit Kinta Forest Reserve. Positive identification of new species or sub species has yet to be made.

Information centre
At the second Orang Asli settlement is the Ulu Geroh Visitor Information Centre and dormitory. It is the nerve centre for the development of sustainable eco-tourism and the conservation and research of the Rafflesia and Raja Brooke’s Birdwing butterflies.
The Semai villagers have been convinced into preserving the Rafflesia blooms and sites. In the past, they had been hacking off the buds to sell to local medicine men at 50 sen per bud! The natives now know that visitors are willing to pay to see these unique flowers and that they can benefit from related sources of income through jungle guiding, cultural performances, sale of food, T-shirts and other souvenirs.
Big sponsors like UNDP, Dow and the Malaysian Nature Society have come aboard since 2004 to build infrastructure, provide expertise in conservation and research and train Orang Asli guides.
The Ulu Geroh villagers welcome visitors, even camera-toting ones.
It was Christmas Eve when I visited last and every household was bustling with preparations for the next day’s feast and celebrations.
Rows of lemang in bamboo were being roasted over open wood fire and the staccato pounding of ingredients to cook curry chicken added to the festive mood.
Five MNS staff members, headed by Sonny Wong from MNS headquarters, were at the Information Centre because they had been invited to attend the village’s Christmas feast. Lucky guys!
Tearing ourselves from all that food, we made our way to the site of the Rajah Brookes, a short distance from the Information Centre.
If you want to photograph these green and black jungle denizens, move very slowly towards them as they settle on tiny streams and muddy patches of mineral water.
I realised I could get to within half a metre from one cluster and squatted to do a close-up. But because I was not in a steady position, I stood up to rearrange my legs and instantly spooked the whole lot away!
I then knelt on one knee and became a statue and to my delight, within a few minutes the butterflies came back, their red heads like beacons in the forest gloom. And when their wings stopped fluttering, I could take all the pictures I wanted.

For the thrill-seekers
Besides wowing the naturalists, this region has a river that provides endless hours of fun and challenge for thrill seekers.
White water rafting is one of the most popular activities. This stretch of the river has been rated a grade three by professional rafters. The two-hour natural roller coaster ride from GNR is enjoyable and exciting. You must give it a try to experience it.
No prior experience is required as long as you are comfortable in water. When I was there a month ago, the youngest participant was a five-year-old boy!
Then there is tubing downstream, advanced-level kayaking and abseiling from the top of a three-storey high waterfall.
Mountain biking, jungle trekking and caving are other ways to explore the place.
This concept of blending in and not blemishing the environment is what is so admirable about the Ulu Geroh eco-tourism package.
Facilities and activities are developed to attract outside visitors but always there is the constant consideration of benefiting the local people.This way, development and education are brought to the Orang Asli, yet the natural environment suffers minimal disturbance — that is symbiosis at the highest level!

Where to Stay
Gopeng Nature Resort, UGM 4/1, Kampung Geruntom, 31600 Gopeng, Perak.
Mobile phones: 012-558 4783/012-457 6325 (Violet Aw), 016-422 1650 (Joyce Aw)
Accommodation: Chalet for 2 or 3 persons — from RM45. Dormitory — from RM10 (minimum 10 people). Camping — RM8 (own tent). Check out attractive 2D/1N and 3D/2N packages at www.gopeng-nature-resort.com
To stay in Ulu Geroh Orang Asli village, contact Bah Azmi (012-414 0271) or MNS (03-228 794 22)

Getting There
From the south, get off the North-South Plus Expressway at the Gopeng interchange. Head north on the old trunk road to Gopeng and after the police station, turn right to the roundabout.
Take the 3 o’clock turn and turn left at the T-junction after that. Follow the huge water pipe to Kampong Sungai Itek and on to a narrow tar road that leads towards the hills and runs next to the water pipe all the way to Kampung Geruntom.
Gopeng Nature Resort is 8km from Gopeng town and Ulu Geroh is 20 minutes’ drive from GNR
From the north, get off the highway at Simpang Pulai Interchange. Turn left at the traffic lights, heading south for Gopeng town, then turn left just before the Gopeng police station and continue your journey as above.
If you are lost, just ask for directions from the friendly town folk.
Transport by van between GNR and Ulu Geroh is RM60 return (for eight people).
Pickup from Gopeng town to GNR can be arranged.

Where to Eat
Food is available at the nature resort as well as at a nearby rest house or you can take a short drive to Gopeng town. River rafters sometimes eat at Gua Tempurung.

Activities
Riverbug Traverse Tours, Gopeng (James Chee: 05-359 6501/012-3131006) offers white water rafting/kayaking, tubing, caving (Gua Tempurung, Kandu Cave), abseiling at Damak Waterfall, trekking (Rafflesia & Butterflies to Cameron Highlands), visit to Orang Asli villages, nightwalk and fishing at resort ponds.

Malaysian Nature Society has a RM57 package which includes a visit to the Rafflesia site, congregation site of Rajah Brookes, waterfall, tea with Orang Asli villagers and a cultural dance demonstration. Repeat visits because of failure to see a Rafflesia in bloom may be free of charge!

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Wild night in Tabin

There is nothing here but Mother Nature. The Tabin Wildlife Reserve is home to a large number of animals, including endangered species, and visitors come for jungle adventures.

TABIN Wildlife Reserve resort manager Eddie Quah is a picture of seriousness. “If I know a way to let National Geographic has this clip, I would be a millionaire,” he says.

When we grin and respond “yeah, right”, he takes a digital camera from a small leather pouch on his belt and shows us the wide LCD screen.

It is a video clip of a medium-sized elephant enjoying a meal on an open dirt road near the resort.

As we huddle closer to get a better view, the jovial Penangite gives a live commentary about the recording.

“When the young elephant realised that he had an audience, he started to feel agitated. He flapped his ears and stomped his right, front foot,” he says.

Suddenly, the screen image shakes and goes out of focus. “I was running for dear life!” explains Quah.

Luckily, he says, the animal then paused and turned into the forest instead. Perhaps it felt that the skinny Quah was not worth the chase!

But the ‘dramatic’ footage makes a deep impression on the group of reporters from Kuala Lumpur who are here on a familiarisation trip to the wildlife reserve near Lahad Datu in Sabah.

“Wait, here’s another clipping!” says Quah excitedly.

This time, it is a ‘feel-good’ recording of a herd of elephants, some chomping fresh leaves and others indulging in a mud bath.

He also shows us images of wild animals that he shot in the resort compound.

“I encountered a rhino during a six-day trek into the interior of Tabin but unfortunately, I didn’t have my camera with me then,” he says.

Cold Night Safari

Quah’s lively commentary fires our imaginations and we cannot wait to brave the starless night for an hour’s journey to see nocturnal Tabin.

Led by a ranger armed with a flood-light, we climb into a pick-up truck and sit in four rows, theatre-style. As soon as the truck leaves the lighted resort, the ranger switches on the flood-light in the direction of the dense jungle.

As we are trying to adjust to the movement of the light against the darkness, it starts to rain. Suddenly, we are having to cope with rain-drops on our faces, the cold air, the pitch-dark night and the deafening silence.

Despite all that, this is an adventure I wouldn’t want to miss for the world.

It is a short trip – just an hour – but we see a Malay civet, a common palm civet, a brown wood owl, a mousedeer and a sun-bear (or is it a honey bear?), among others.

Tame, Muddy Volcano

With so many animals on the move at night, we wonder what it’s like in the day at a mineral-rich mud volcano that we visited earlier.

The huge patch of earth was heavily marked with animal footprints, especially at the softer muddy areas near the bubbling part of the volcano. We could see footprints of elephant – of various sizes and depth – as well as wild boar and deer and cat-paw prints left by either leopard or civet.

A tall, five-storey high viewing tower makes watching the animals more comfortable and (a bit) safer than going on a night safari.

Unlike the other mud volcano at Pulau Tiga (the ‘Survival’ Island named after Survivor, the popular television reality show), Tabin’s mud volcano is not suitable for visitors to have exotic mud bath.

“Just look at the animal footprints and you can guess what comes with them. Well, unless you don’t mind spreading it onto your skin,” explains our guide.

Lipad Waterfall

We fall asleep with thoughts of visiting the beautiful Lipad Waterfall the next morning. We are given a choice of bird-watching at the first rays of the sun or to wake a little later for the two-hour trek to Lipad Waterfall.

Avid bird-watchers fight the temptation to grab an extra few minutes of sleep, while the rest of us turn up at the breakfast buffet just in time to get a bite before the trek. There are two trails to the waterfall. One goes through the dirt road to an old logging track before entering the secondary jungle. The other goes straight to the jungle through another abandoned logging track.

Since it rained the night before, the latter is thought to be too ‘koyak’ for us. (Koyak is Malay word for tear, a term used by off-roaders to describe wet, muddy and difficult track.)

So we head for the first. It is an easy walk along a levelled dirt road before we enter the long, monotonous trail flanked by thick, tall lalang.

Much later, we walk through the jungle which offers some shade from the scorching sun, to the river with moss-covered rocks, low tree branches and the sparkling clear water.

But when Lipad Waterfall comes into view, our joy falls flat. It’s just a tiny gush of white water falling into a large, deep green pool with huge rocks on one side and tall big trees on the other. Nice but hardly worth getting excited over. We don’t need much coaxing to walk back to the resort.

However, Tabin is not without surprises. As we sit down in Lipad Café for a cold drink, a bird-watcher in our group announces that he managed to spot at least 60 species within the resort compound alone. Now, that’s really something!

Tabin Wildlife Reserve

TABIN is an enormous dipterocarp rainforest landscape in the eastern part of Sabah, dubbed Malaysian Borneo. It has been declared a wildlife reserve as it is home to a large number of animals, some of which are highly endangered and endemic. With a protected forest area of 120,500 hectares, Tabin plays an important role as a dedicated ground for the breeding of endangered wildlife and protected mammals in Sabah. The three largest land mammals of Sabah: Borneo Pygmy Elephant, Sumatran Rhino and Tembadau are found in Tabin. It is also a bird-watcher’s paradise with a record of 42 indigenous families representing 220 species of birds. Among them are eight Sabahan hornbill species, blue-headed pitta, wren-abbler, Borneon blue flycathcer and some rarely seen species like the speckled piculet, chestnut-capped thrush and thick-bellied flowerpecker.

Where To Stay

Tabin Wildlife Reserve is a one-resort park. A small site of the vast park has been allocated as the nerve centre with lodging and other facilities for visitors. Expect nothing but abundant nature. The resort offers authentic Borneo-style timber chalets built within thick forested hill and basic floor-and-roof-only Eco Tented Platforms (ETP). For comfort, stay in timber chalets – cabin lodge, superior and deluxe chalets. Each chalet has its own private balcony, air-conditioner and hot shower. The more adventurous can stay at the ETPs built about one metre off the ground. They come in two sizes and are equipped with mosquito net and mattress, a dining platform and a cooking platform. Common shower room and toilet are provided nearby. For more info, visit www.tabinwildlife.com.my or email to enquiry@tabinwildlife.com.my.

Where To Eat

This may be the country’s largest wildlife reserve but don’t worry about food. Lipad Café is an all-timber restaurant set in the open-air. The lush jungle looks as if it grows around the cafe. With no walls (not even music playing in the background), dining here makes you feel like you’re having a meal in the middle of the jungle. You can hear sounds of chirping birds, buzzing insects and rippling water from the adjacent Sungai Lipad. Once in a while, a tiny bird flies past or dried leaves gently float downwards in the cafe area. It’s simply lovely.

Getting There

Tabin Wildlife Reserve is located some 50km to the north-east of Lahad Datu, located on the Dent Peninsular. It takes about an hour to get there by four-wheel drive, with the second half of the journey a shaky ride on gravel roads. Ground transportation is usually pre-arranged with the resort since it is included in the package. Trying to get a taxi or transport to go in will be quite impossible, especially for walk-in guests. Lahad Datu is in the eastern part of Sabah. You may drive there – six hours from Kota Kinabalu and two-and-a-half hours from Sandakan. However, it only takes 40 minutes to fly in from Kota Kinabalu. Fly Asia Xpress (FAX) flies there three times daily from Kota Kinabalu. Visit www.flyasianxpress.com or call 03-8775 4000.

ZALINA MOHD SOM

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Pulau Carey rediscovered

Though it’s definitely not her first visit to Pulau Carey, ZALINA MOHD SOM continues to find new facets that fascinate her.

IT’S interesting how a place can mean different things to us at different stages of our life. For instance, when I first saw the road sign to Pulau Carey, I was a young child. I assumed that it was an island located at the end of that small road that broke away from my balik kampung route – the Klang-Banting road in Selangor. In my teens, I took my first trip to Pulau Carey and very soon, it became a favourite haunt for me and my friends. We spent many happy hours catching prawns on the beach there. The prawns are actually udang mabuk (dizzy prawn) or prawns trapped in pools of water on the shallow beach when the tide went out. We weren’t the only ones besotted with udang mabuk. It was a favourite activity with almost everyone who came to the beach here. But now that I am all grown up, I see Pulau Carey as a small island, with unique charms hidden amidst lush oil palm plantations. So well hidden indeed are these that “outsiders” who want to enjoy her best offerings, would need to make prior travel arrangement. If they were to go on their own, they would see nothing more than plantations and some modern looking villages. But, with the right contacts, a trip to Pulau Carey is well worth your time, especially if you get to see how its indigenous people, the Mah Meri, live. Sampling seafood at restaurants located around Pulau Carey will make your visit there complete.

The Mah Meri

Pulau Carey is the only home for the Mah Meri, one of 19 Orang Asli tribes in the peninsula. They once shared the land with the Indians who were brought in to work the plantations back in the early 1900s. A guided tour of any of the Mah Meri villages will give an insight into their animistic and superstitious beliefs, a close view of their beautiful handiwork and a taste of their simple life. “Visitors don’t come here to be entertained but to learn about the Mah Meri culture. Having a knowledgeable tourist guide and a pre-arranged tour are vital,” says Orang Asli arts and craft researcher Rashid Esa. The best time to visit is during one of the colourful Mah Meri celebrations – a wedding, hari moyang or procession which normally feature the upbeat mask dance. Hari Moyang, the community’s annual celebration, is celebrated in February. Of the five villages, tourists usually head for Kampung Sungai Bumbun. The Mah Meri here are tourist savvy and some young girls selling the local handicraft can even understand a little English (like quoting prices of items) and they even use calculators to sum up their takings. The village has a handicraft centre but it’s only stocked up when visitors are expected. The Mah Meri is known for their wood carving and pandan weaving. Their carvings have won numerous accolades, including Unesco awards. For organised visits to Pulau Carey, call Selangor Tourism Action Council at 03-5511 1122, Arts & Heritage Association of Indigenous People of Pulau Carey at 03-3187 6148 or Rashid at 019-3660301.

Golden Hope’s Heritage Island

At Golden Hope Plantation Berhad’s Heritage Island, which occupies about two thirds of Pulau Carey, time seems to stand still. At first glance, there is no indication of anything special here as all one can see are just rows and rows of oil palms. But drive further in along the well-maintained tarred road and soon, you’d find small houses where the plantation workers live. And in the middle of sprawling, well-manicured lawns stand beautiful old colonial mansions that are over 100 years old. Some of these mansions are home to the personnel of Heritage Island while a few have been turned into guesthouses for visitors. Heritage Island is pretty self-contained. It has its own church, temple, mosque, post office and hospital. There’s even a nine-hole golf course and fields for cricket and lawn cricket. The Golden Hope Academy, which offers plantation-related courses, is also located within the ‘heritage zone’. An ideal study tour venue for students, Golden Hope has also dedicated a piece of the land for a herb garden and an eagle sanctuary. With prior arrangements, visitors can watch demonstrations of oil palm harvesting and tour the refinery plant. For details, write to Golden Hope Plantations Berhad, Menara PNB, Jalan Tun Razak 50400 Kuala Lumpur or call 03-2161 9022 ext 185.

Getting There

From Klang, take the Klang-Banting Road. Just after the small town of Telok Panglima Garang, head straight at the three-arm roundabout. The narrow road leads to Pulau Carey.

Zalina Mohd Som

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Going where tigers roam

The Kenong Nature Park near Kuala Lipis is easy to reach and is the perfect place to explore the jungle, during the day and night.

ALL 120 of us came out of the Kenong Nature Park alive! This may seem a strange statement but anything could have happened to us in the more than 130-million-year-old forest — but didn’t.

Instead we enjoyed ourselves during the 12 hours that we spent in the forest near Kuala Lipis, Pahang — from the time we arrived at 10am till the time we left at 10am the next day.

We had five meals, went on two jungle walks (during the day and at night), explored two caves and took a boat ride.

We must have eaten about 30 kilos of chicken, 10 kilos each of fish and vegetables, 30 kilos of fruits and each drunk several litres of coffee, tea and water. We sang and laughed our heads off at night and some among us smoked an assortment of cigarettes that could have polluted a big hall.

During all that time, not a single one of us was aware that we were being “watched” by none other than a Panthera tigris, or harimau belang, the unrivalled king of the jungle.

Game warders had found its paw prints, about twice the size of a human palm, the next morning near our campsite. But we only learnt about this close brush with the wild beast when we were safely on the bus on our way back to Kuala Lipis, some 80km from the park. The tiger must have been a dominant male, doing a discreet inspection in the dead of the night and figuring out who had intruded into its domain in such large numbers.

I rather took pity on the tiger. He was probably shaking its head in disbelief at how humans could degrade themselves, eating, drinking and making all that noise, screaming at the top of their lungs in the middle of the night. That probably made it leave us alone!

Din in the forest

We stayed in several wooden chalets and dormitories on stilts as well as in tents pitched over a five-hectare site. We made a racket cooking, talking, laughing and even making speeches using the microphone and LCD projector.

Then, there was the karaoke session with many singing off-key. Luckily, the (terrible) singing ended at 12.30am. The smells that permeated the air in the jungle were from soap, toothpaste, colognes, perfumes, hair spray as well as from cooking and the outdoor barbecue. So much for preserving and appreciating the pristine jungle and its natural cacophony of sounds!

This must have been the thoughts and feelings of the natural jungle dwellers. The animals could even have felt fear and definitely detested the intrusion. Hence, none was visible throughout our stay there. There is plenty of wildlife, including spiders, birds, squirrels and elephants in the jungle but to spot them, you have to trek very quietly and wait patiently at strategic spots.

Where are the wild animals?

The ancient forest has many treasures — from glorious trees to clear, gurgling rivers, from majestic limestone outcrops to numerous dark caves. The caves are many millions of years older than the forests as they were once below sea level and became visible when the sea level dropped.

Often, on a jungle trek, first-timers will ask: “Where are the wild animals?” The almost ready-made answer is: “This is not a zoo and the animals are staying out of sight as they probably think that you are wilder than them!” One would be extremely lucky to see a live tiger in the wild as it is an extremely smart animal. Unless it is running away from you, chances are that you might find the encounter memorable — as its meal!

Research shows that tigers are known to avoid human contact. It will only attack domestic animals and, in extreme cases, it may attack humans when it cannot hunt any more for food due to injuries or old age. But once the tiger has tasted human flesh, it turns into a “man-eater”. This is why it is very dangerous for anyone to simply intrude into the jungle.

There is also another danger. During the mating season, male tigers are known to impress the tigress he is mating with by strewing the trail with carcasses of animals he has killed! Having said that, tiger attacks are rare and no tourists have been known to have been attacked by tigers in this country.

The nocturnal beautifully-striped mammal will spend the day taking cool dips in a stream or sleeping in the cool shade. It will only come out to hunt at night. Just like sharks, more tigers have been killed by humans than humans killed by tigers. The number of tigers and other species of wild animals poached and their natural habitat destroyed by humans is far greater.

Journey to the park

Kenong Nature Park is popular among nature lovers. Our group travelled there by evening train from Kuala Lumpur Sentral station to the park’s gateway, the town of Kuala Lipis. We spent the night on board the train. It was a comfortable journey in the air-conditioned coach. Upon reaching Kuala Lipis station at 5.30am, we were whisked in three buses to the nearby Centrepoint Hotel for a short rest, shower, breakfast and a briefing.

Then we left for Felda Kesong. When we alighted from our buses at Felda Kesong, staff of the Kuala Lipis district office were there to take us in 25 four-wheel drive vehicles into the park. It was 10am when we crossed the bridge over a small river near the park headquarters to reach our campsite.

Centrepoint Hotel staff Nini Susanti Ariffin and Linda Abdullah accompanied us on the journey. They, together with government servants and tour agents from Pahang, ensured that we had a pleasant and memorable trip. The trip was organised by KTM in co-operation with the Pahang state government, Tourism Malaysia and tour agents. One of the agents is Kuala Lipis-based Tuah Travel, wellknown for its tours to the Kenong Nature Park.

Our trip to Kenong was part of the 4-day/ 3-night tour package that also covers Kuala Lipis, Kuala Medang and the Merapoh/Sungai Relau Nature Park.

Even leeches stayed away

Taking a large group of people comprising the media, Tourism Malaysia officers and KTM staff on a familiarisation trip called “Moh Melawat Pahang” was a novel idea to expose us to one of the tourism products of Pahang. But our group’s experience also proved that the park does not have the “carrying capacity” to support such a large group, that is more than 100 at any one time.

The short time, the noise, the smell and the over-crowding did not give us room to enjoy nature in the true sense of the word. Nevertheless, our experienced guide, Azam Abdul Rahman, made the tour very lively and informative.

Foremost in my memory was when he pointed us to a smooth rock face where he said elephants scratched themselves. He also showed us a hole in the ground that is actually the nest of the cicada (riang-riang) which goes through a long period of metamorphosis. The night walk was not adventurous as we did not see insects and other creatures. It was a dry night. A little rain a few days earlier would have made a world of difference. I was also expecting to “donate” some blood to leeches but even for that, there were no takers! How to get there

The starting point to the Kenong Nature Park is Kuala Lipis, which can be reached by road or rail. If you drive from Kuala Lumpur, take the Karak highway and exit at Bentong. That will lead you to Raub and then Kuala Lipis. There are clear signs on the highway. By train, take the KTM inter-city train to the east coast from KL Sentral station. For details, call 03-2279 8867/70 or access www.ktmb.com.my

Tuah Travel & Tours (M) Sdn Bhd KTMB Railway Station, Jalan Stesyen, 27200 Kuala Lipis, Pahang. Tel: 09-3122292 Fax: 09-3123277 Mobile: 013-9515218

SAGER AHMAD

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Living with the Semelai

The Semelai have retained much of their old way of life despite having settled down in villages. At a three-day campsite adventure, ZALINA MOHD SOM spends treasured moments in their world.

FOR me, Tasik Bera will always bring back memories of a thrilling boat ride on my first trip there four years ago.

“It was better than a ride in a theme park,” I enthusiastically told photographer Munira Abd Ghani who came along on this trip.

All through the three-hour drive from Kuala Lumpur, I couldn’t stop talking about the ride – how fast the boat went through the narrow, snaking waterways and how sharp the corners were.

My enthusiasm was most infectious and soon our group, making the trip for a three-day/two-night camping adventure at Kampung Pathir camp, was bubbling over with anticipation.

Our trip was organised by the Semelai Association of Boat and Tourism (Sabot) with the co-operation of Wetlands International Asia-Pacific.

The Boat Ride

It was the dry season. The water level of the lake had dropped significantly. The thrilling boat ride we had hoped for turned instead into a wonderful, scenic cruise as we broke the still surface of the water and brushed against thick pandanus foliage.

That gave us opportunities to take a closer look at Tasik Bera’s rich flora and fauna. Munira, especially, had a good time clicking away, taking close-up shots of numerous species of pitcher plants, lotus, wild blooms and insects and birds from different angles.

We also stopped at a couple of crocodile hot spots while our Semelai host teased us with tales of crocodiles and giant anaconda-like snakes.

Jungle challenges

The land around the natural freshwater lake is generally covered by dry lowland dipterocarp forests. But the sight of a bare hill in front of our campsite shocked us. The trees had been stripped off — the work of loggers, perhaps.

Predictably, the start of our jungle adventure was a long, hot walk through rubber estates and naked red-earth plots. But it became cooler as we stepped into the Semelai Medicinal Garden – an area of the jungle with lots of medicinal herbs. Some bore information signages and the rare, “endangered” ones were protected within small fences.

Before we entered the jungle to see the endemic purple water trumpet or locally known as hati-hati paya, we had a little fun in the wild.

Our host threw us a challenge called Jejak Kelawar or trekking the bat where we had to walk through the shrub blindfolded, guided only by a rope. The game is usually part of the team-building, motivational programmes for student groups.

We then trekked (or may I say walked blindly) for about an hour to the spot where the water trumpet can be found. It was just a tiny stream where the leaves of the purple-greenish plant lie submerged.

The jungle trail was rather flat and easy – wide, clear paths with no challenging terrain except for a few wet patches. Besides the water trumpet, we saw some species of pitcher plants, jungle blooms and feline footprints.

That very night, we were left by ourselves – solitary in the jungle for about 20 minutes — as part of what is called solo night activity. The bright full moon did nothing to calm our quick pulsating hearts. The slightest sounds were amplified a thousandfold and we heard doom in every rustle of the foliage.

At The Camp

We didn’t exactly camp in the jungle. Instead, the Kampung Pathir Campsite is located on the fringes of a rubber estate, an open area designated perhaps for rubber cultivation and a thin line of forest that acted as a buffer-zone between the lake and the kampung.

The small kampung nearest to our campsite was about 300 metres uphill. Nevertheless, it gave us a taste of how the Semelai lived.

There were three units of traditional Semelai houses, with walls made of tree bark, a bamboo floor and an attap roof. It was comforting for us to find out that we had at least two common bathrooms and toilets for both genders and a multipurpose hall that served as kitchen, dining area and classroom. Water was frequently pumped in from a “faraway” well and electricity came from a generator.

Lifestyle of the Semelai

For three days, we would share the ways of the Semelai. We slept in their balai, we tasted their food, learned their hunting skills, tried our hands at their crafts and danced to their music.

For over 700 years, Tasik Bera was home to the Semelai who were shifting cultivators. Today, they are mainly settled in a few permanent villages around the lake with Pos Iskandar, the biggest of the villages, acting as their “town centre”.

Though they are full-time farmers who plant rubber and vegetables, they still continue to hunt and trap animals, fish and gather jungle produce for a pastime and to supplement their income.

The Semelai are also good at handicraft – the women weave pandanus leaves and rattan and the men make dug-out boats (and miniatures) as well as traditional musical instruments.

The Semelai are very proud of their welcome dance. This is performed to a monotonous beat and they tap their feet alternately on the floor while spreading their arms like a bird in flight. Interestingly, the Semelai tell almost all their folk tales, mostly about wildlife and nature, through songs.

With the help of Wetlands International Asia-Pacific, the Semelai started a community-based eco-tourism project under Sabot. With this, the Semelai no longer act as guides on hourly fees. They now run the whole show — from boat chartering, food catering, camp management to nature guiding. Based at Pos Iskandar, Sabot is managed by full-time staff skilled in computer usage, English language, marketing and accounting.

For reservations and enquiries, call Sabot at 011-912617 or Tasik Bera Ramsar Site Management Office at 09-2556 566.

Getting There

North entrance – From Kuala Lumpur or Kuantan, head for Temerloh and then Bera Town. From here, follow the signboards to Tasik Bera. Those coming from Bahau or Kuala Pilah should follow signboards to Kemayan which leads to Triang and Kerayong. From Kerayong, look out for signboards to Tasik Bera.

By train: Get off at Mentakab or Triang stations and take a taxi from there.

By bus: Take the bus to Bahau or Temerloh and continue by taxi.

These directions lead to the Visitor Centre and Pesona Lake Resort.

South entrance – From Kuantan or Rompin, drive to Muadzam Shah and on to Kota Bahagia. Follow signages to Tasik Bera. Those coming from Segamat or Singapore should also drive to Kota Bahagia.

By bus: Alight at Bahau and continue by taxi to Pos Iskandar. These directions lead to Pos Iskandar only.

First Ramsar Site

Tasik Bera is Malaysia’s first Ramsar site and, since 1995, has been managed as a wetland of international importance.

The Convention on Wetlands, signed in Ramsar, Iran in 1971, is an inter-governmental treaty set in recognition of the importance of wetlands and their ecological functions.

Parties to the convention are invited to list such habitats within their country as wetlands of international importance, and thus become a Ramsar Site. Tasik Bera is one of the two major natural water bodies of freshwater in the peninsula. The other lake which is smaller, is Tasik Cini, also in Pahang.

Tasik Bera supports the indigenous people of the Semelai tribe and is also home to diverse plants and animals. It is recorded that the lake abounds with 94 types of fishes, 10 types of tortoises and terrapins, 19 varieties of frogs (an indication that it has a very healthy eco-system), 67 mammal species, 224 bird species and 328 types of aquatic plants.

It is surrounded by swamps and mangroves rich in carbon and has a natural filtration system of keracut and resau plants. Flowing north to Sungai Bera before turning to Sungai Pahang, the lake measures 34.6km long and 25.3 wide. It also controls floods and water flows.

The country’s other Ramsar sites are Johor’s Pulau Kukup, Sungai Pulai and Tanjung Piai and the latest – Kuching Wetlands National Park in Sarawak.

ZALINA MOHD SOM

http://www.nst.com.my/Weekly/Travel/article/FeatureStory/20070716105416/Article/

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What’s On: KUALA LUMPUR FESTIVAL (till July 31)

Month-long celebration of the arts, culture and traditions of the country with live shows including musicals, singing contests and art exhibitions.

Jazz, world music and classical music will be performed by local and foreign musicians. Details, call the Ministry of Culture, Arts and Heritage at 03-2612 7645 or visit www.klfestival.org.my

PERAK CARNIVAL AND AGRO FESTIVAL (till July 31)

Take your pick of events like Japanese Drum Festival (Ipoh, July 22), Jalan Jalan Makan, Teluk Batik, July 28-29, Konsert Bergerak Ahmad Nawab, Taman Budaya Perak, July 28 and Petronas Sprinta AAM Malaysian Cub Prix Championship, Taiping, July 28-29. Details, call Lembaga Pertubuhan Peladang Perak at 05-291 1664.

MALAYSIA MEGA SALE CARNIVAL (till Sept 2)

Nationwide. Sale carnival with big bargains and discounts for clothes, electronic items, cosmetics and footwear. Also prizes to be won in shopping hunts, lucky draws and talentime contests. Midnight sales on weekend at selected stores in Kuala Lumpur, Johor Baru, Penang and Miri. Details, call 03-2698 1033 or visit www.mymegasale.com

WORLD MUSIC FESTIVAL (July 20–22)

Taman Kuari, Penang. After the Rainforest World Music Festival in Sarawak, the musicians will join locals here to showcase a fusion of various genres of music. Details, call 04-262 0202 or visit www.motour.gov.my

PORT DICKSON INTERNATIONAL TRIATHLON (July 21–22)

Port Dickson. Over 1,000 participants from 35 countries will compete in the event that combines running, swimming and cycling. Details, call Admiral Marina & Leisure Club at 06-6470 888 or visit www.admiralmarina.com.my

MALAYSIA INTERNATIONAL AEROSPACE ADVENTURE (July 28-Sept 30)

Sultan Abdul Aziz Shah Airport, Subang. Malaysia makes its mark as one of the few Asian countries to hold a world-class aerospace exposition. It’s a rare opportunity to have a close look at the space shuttle. Details, call 03-2273 8999 or visit www.mia2007.com

50 YEARS OF NATIONHOOD – WORLD LION DANCE INVITATION (Aug 3–5)

Genting Highland. A rare chance to watch lion dances by troupes from all over the world. Held to mark Malaysia’s 50th anniversary as a nation on Aug 31 and in conjunction with Visit Malaysia Year 2007. Details, call 03-6105 2143 or visit genting.com.my

MALAYSIA INTERNATIONAL FIREWORKS COMPETITION (Aug 15-Sept 2)

Putrajaya. The beautiful administrative centre of Malaysia will be lit up with spectacular fireworks in this competition which includes Italy, Japan, Australia and Malaysia. Details Call 03-7710 2611 or visit www.mifc.com.my

EYE ON MALAYSIA (Until Dec 31)

Taman Tasik Titiwangsa, Kuala Lumpur. Come and experience a breathtaking 360-degree panoramic view of Kuala Lumpur on the giant Ferris wheel. It will be an unforgettable ride as the wheel takes your gondola to a height of 60 metres where you can see the whole city up to a radius of 20km. Details, call 03-2693 7111, email info@motour.gov.my or visit www.motour.gov.my.

http://www.nst.com.my/Weekly/Travel/article/LeisureChoice/20070716111306/Article/

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