Short Break/Best of Sarawak: Barren forest
Bako National Park has many faces. ALAN TEH LEAM SENG bravely walks into Kerangas, the land where paddy cannot grow
THE heat is sweltering in Kampung Bako, the gateway to the Bako National Park at the tip of the Muara Tebas peninsula in Sarawak.
But it doesn’t bother me. In fact, I’m pleased that the clear sky will let me indulge in what I consider an adventure of a lifetime.
I’d heard so much about Bako and I’d been looking forward to the trip. There was not enough time to explore all of the 2,727-hectare site so I am to concentrate on the Kerangas Forest.
“Kerangas Forest? What’s that?†I inquired when the suggestion was first made. Pictures of armies of red fire ants crawling all over came to mind as the name closely resembles kerengga, the Malay name for red ants.
To my relief, I learn that kerangas is an Iban word for “a place where paddy cannot grow†indicating its lack of soil fertility.
The Village
Kg Bako is just a few minutes walk from the bus drop off point. While waiting for the boat to the park, I nose around the village.
At the makeshift wooden shacks that line the narrow lane leading to the jetty, freshly caught marine as well as brackish fish and prawns are offered for sale. Huge white prawns cost only RM15 a kg, a price that’ll surely cause a small ‘riot’ in Kuala Lumpur.
Next to the jetty is Bako Seafood Restaurant which, locals tell me, serves heavenly chili crabs and butter prawns. Every evening, diners come from as far away as Kuching to sample its specialties.
Boat Ride
My boatman beckons. “Air mula surut,†he says, indicating that the tide has started to turn. As the boat glides effortlessly over the calm waters, I soak in the sights and smells around me.
Riverine homes slowly give way to lush green mangroves lining the riverbanks and small fishing crafts dot the horizon. After 20 minutes, we arrive at the Bako National Park Jetty in Telok Assam. After registering at the headquarters, the adventure begins.
Into The Forest
It’s a short climb to Kerengas Forest which is on an alleviated plain. The track is well laid out and signboards keep me on course. I take note of the change in vegetation as I climb higher. The dense tropical rainforest soon give way to sparse montane plants that are well adapted to cooler surroundings.
Then suddenly, the entire landscape changes. The air is cooler, the trees are mostly coniferous and the ground is covered with dried organic material. Guests are warned not to smoke or light matches here, as everything is as dry as tinder.
Despite the sparse vegetation, I could see a variety of pitcher plants that are well suited for infertile areas. These carnivorous plants trap insects and digesting them by secreting digestive enzymes before absorbing the digested juices. Thus they are able to thrive in nutrient-deficient soils and rocks. Other carnivorous plants include sundews and bladderworts.
Another extraordinary feature of the Kerengas Forest is the ant plant that presents a special symbiosis between insects and plant. This relationship allows both organisms to thrive here. This plant is easy to spot as it has bulbous protrusions where ants make their home.
There are few animals as the lack of fruiting trees makes Kerengas Forest hostile to wildlife. But I manage to spot a proboscis monkey and several species of birds including hornbills, barbets and pitas. Park manager Saili Aban says the park is home to more than 190 species of birds.
On the way down, I feel a sense of satisfaction for having seen a rare side of Bako National Park. The park was gazetted as a protected area in 1957, making it Malaysia’s oldest national park. It’s currently under the jurisdiction of the Sarawak Forestry Corporation.
Visit Malaysia Year 2007 will be especially meaningful for the park, as it’ll be celebrating its golden anniversary, sparking off a well anticipated double celebration.
For more information, contact Sarawak Forestry Department Tel: 082-348 001, fax: +082-488 654, toll free line: 1-800-882 526, website: www.sarawakforestry.com, email: info@sarawakforestry.com. You may also call National Parks Booking Office, Kuching (Visitor Information Centre) Tel: 082-248 088 or fax: 082-248 087.
Fast Facts
Spend at least two days to fully appreciate the beauty of the park. Don’t be misled by its relatively small size (compared to other national parks) as Bako is home to most of Borneo’s diverse vegetation types. There are seven diverse natural habitats here — Beach Forest, Cliff Vegetation, Kerangas or Heath Forest, Mangrove Forest, Mixed Dipterocarp Forest, Peat Swamp Forest and Grassland.
Its extensive network of 18 jungle trails (including the Pa’ Amit Trail on Lakei Island) is colour coded to guide visitors. The more adventurous can choose a full-day jungle hike or an overnight camping expedition. Day-trippers can check out the shorter trails close to the park’s headquarters.
Take a short boat ride to Pulau Lakei, the one and only island in the park to enjoy its serenity and natural beauty. You can stay overnight and enjoy the stunning sunsets overlooking the Santubong Range.
At the top of the 160 flights of wooden steps is a warrior’s grave. Datuk Ibrahim, an early resident of the island, was said to have superhuman strength and could engrave Islamic ‘khat’ on rock faces with his fingers! People come from as far away as Brunei on an annual pilgrimage to the grave near Salamun Pool.
Wear comfortable clothes and proper footwear, as the trails can get muddy and slippery especially after a downpour. Bring lots of drinking water and some light snacks, as some trails are quite long. Outdoor cooking is not allowed. A good pair of binoculars and a handbook on the birds of Borneo is a must for birdwatchers.
The park is also home to five species of primates, namely the rare proboscis monkey, long-tailed macaque, silver leaf langur, the slow loris and tarsier. Other interesting animals seen are monitor lizards, plantain squirrels, bearded wild pigs (the largest mammal in the park), flying lemurs, civet cats and more than six species of bats.
Where To Stay
Accommodation includes chalets, lodges and hostels. There are two semi-detached lodges, each with four beds priced at RM25 per bed. There are also seven units of two-room chalets at RM150 a night. The cheapest accommodation of a hostel bed costs only RM15 per night. The camp site, with washroom facilities, can fit 180 campers at any one time.
Other facilities include the Kerangas Cafe, a barbecue area, 24-hour electricity supply and treated water supply, information centre and environmental education centre. There is a government clinic at Kg Bako.
Getting There
Petra Jaya Bus No. 6 from Kuching takes 40 minutes to arrive at Kg Bako. The earliest bus leaves Kuching at 6am and the last bus leaves Kg Bako at 5pm daily. Visitors must report at the Arrival Terminal near the jetty.
Chartered boats manned by the locals cost RM16 for a return journey and while a trip to Lakei Island costs RM25. Children pay half price and toddlers under 12 months are charged only 10 per cent of the fare.
Take A Tour
Several agents provide tours to Bako National Park. Some of them are:
CPH Travel Agencies (Sarawak) Sdn Bhd
Tel: 082-243 708/242 289
Email: cphtrvl@streamyx.com
Website: www.cphtravel.com
Borneo Interland Travel Sdn Bhd
Tel: 082-413 595/426 328
Email: bitravel@tm. net.my
Website: www.bitravel.com.my
Borneo Fairyland Travel & Tour Sdn Bhd
Tel: 082-420 194/420 195
Email: bftravel@tm. net.my
Website: www.borneofairyland.tripod.com
ALAN TEH LEAM SENG
http://www.nst.com.my/Weekly/Travel/article/Destinations/20070319140009/Article/
Kuala Berang’s glorious past
It’s a quiet town that you can whizz past without noticing. But, writes ALIAS MOHAMED, Kuala Berang was once a busy port in Terengganu
IT’S a place that few people will notice. It does not arouse any excitement, unlike Tasik Kenyir located 35km away.
Yet, centuries ago, the district of Kuala Berang was one of the busiest ports in Terengganu where traders from as far as China came to trade and to replenish their supply of food and fresh water.
Back then (12th-14th Century), the Chinese called the place Fo-Lo-Ann. The locals, however, named it Kuala Berang after the bamboo species known as buluh berang that grew wildly along the banks of Sungai Terengganu and Sungai Berang.
According to records at the Terengganu State Museum, a Chinese historian, Chan Ju Kau, wrote that Kuala Berang was once a very busy port with traders buying local goods like kayu cendawan (candan), elephant tusks and scented kayu gaharu for export to China, the Middle East and West Asia.
In exchange, the traders brought gold, silverware and food for sale at markets in Kuala Berang.
The traders arrived in large vessels through Sungai Terengganu or other routes that passed through Pahang and Kelantan to reach Kuala Berang.
At that time, Sg Terengganu was more than 15 metres deep and it could hold large vessels, some of them as big as medium-sized battleships that plied the Straits of Malacca.
This fact is confirmed by the discovery of an iron anchor used by large vessels, near Kg Buluh.
The old trading zone was near Kg Buluh, located between Sungai Terengganu and Sungai Berang, 32km from the sea.
Another Chinese historian, Chau Chu Fei, described Kuala Berang as a great port, similar to Kedah’s Bujang Valley during the Srivijaya rule more than 2,000 years ago.
Kuala Berang was a thriving entity on its own, but in the 14th Century, it came under the rule of the Terengganu sultanate. The first sultan was Sultan Zainal Abidin. In the 18th Century, the administration shifted to the State capital of Kuala Terengganu. Today, Kuala Berang is one of seven districts in Terengganu and encompasses Tasik Kenyir.
Historic Finds
The famous Terengganu batu bersurat (inscribed stone slab that’s a sign of the early existence of Islam in the State) was actually found in Sungai Tara, Kg Buluh in 1887. The stone is now displayed at the Terengganu State Museum in Kuala Terengganu. The graveyards of local warriors — Tok Gajah, Tok Indera and Tok Pauh — were also found in Kuala Berang.
Kuala Berang also has traces of Neolithic and Mesolithic civilisation. After Tasik Kenyir was opened in early 80s, there were several discoveries that proved the existence of the Neolithic people.
At Gua Bewah in the area of Tasik Kenyir, several jars and other artefacts were found that indicated the existence of the Neolithic civilisation. Not far away, at Bukit Taat, several jars, plates and the skeletons of Neolithic people were unearthed. According to studies, this civilisation existed several thousand years ago.
The findings at both Gua Bewah and Bukit Taat have long piqued the interest of historians and trekkers as well. The two places are listed as attractions of Tasik Kenyir.
Since Tasik Kenyir is a popular fishing spot, Kuala Berang too benefits from the scores of visitors passing through to get there. There may not be any of the physical legacies of its glorious past but it suffices to know that it was once a bright spot in the country’s history.
Getting There
From Kuantan, Dungun or Bukit Besi, drive towards Ajil. From there, signboards point to Kuala Berang, which is about 10km from Ajil. Drive 35km from Kuala Berang and you will reach Tasik Kenyir.
What To Do
Kuala Berang itself has nothing much to offer. Tourists usually head straight for Tasik Kenyir. But those who like local fruits such as buah salak, kelubi or other jungle products, will go to the market which opens every Saturday and Monday.
About 20km from the town is Sekayu Recreation Park with a beautiful stream and tiers of waterfall. There are shady spots for picnics and other activities. You can also visit the State Agriculture Department’s orchid and fruit gardens and a herb garden maintained by the State Forestry Department.
Where To Stay
Kenyir Lake View Resort
(Tel: 09-666 8888)
Kenyir Sanctuary Resort
Mobile No. 019-983 6105).
You can also stay in a boathouse run by Ketengah (Tel: 09-822 3100).
ALIAS MOHAMED
http://www.nst.com.my/Weekly/Travel/article/Heritage/20070319140706/Article/
Gourmet trail: It’s all in the stuffing
Yong tau foo is available everywhere but the best is that made by the Hakkas. TUNG ENG SWEE writes
CAN you tell good Hakka yong tau foo from the pretenders? According to my wife, it’s in the stuffing.
She knows best as she is a taipu hak, a Hakka sub-group, and yong tau foo is one of her family’s gastronomic delights.
“It must have an equal mix of pork and fish, not just fish alone,†she says. “The yong tau foo wrappings – bittergourd, lady fingers, red chili, eggplant, fried beancurd or beancurd skins – should be fresh. They should only be lightly fried, except for soft beancurd and chillies, and served immediately.â€
The sauces, a combination of red sauce (also known as sweet sauce or thim cheong) and brown sauce (which is soya sauce) should not be overpowering in taste, with the red sauce slightly sweet and not sour and the brown sauce not too salty. Chili sauce, a standard feature now, was an option in the old days.
Additional side dishes such as sui kow (prawn dumplings) and meatballs should also be crunchy. Those fried should be served fresh. If prepared earlier and refried at order, they won’t taste as good.
All these have been my benchmark whenever I go in search of yong tau foo. While there are several good ones in the Klang Valley, I recently stumbled upon one in Mambau, on the way to Port Dickson.
Yong Tau Foo and More
Mambau Hakka Yong Tau Foo was started by Kum Choi Yun. According to the daughter, the family has been in the business for over 20 years. They also operate a popular restaurant in town about 100 metres down the same road.
But the stall is where you can get one of the best Hakka yong tau foo I’ve come across.
At 80 sen a piece, the yong tau foo may seem a bit pricey. It used to be 70 sen but I reckon popularity got the upper hand. But take a bite first.
The stuffing, made of meat and fish, is crunchy to the bite rather than soft (an indication of adulteration as producers use more flour than fish and meat).
Of course, what’s a good yong tau foo without fried meat dumplings and dumpling soup? These are available too, although they are not much to shout about except for the pork balls which are extra “springy†to the bite.
When checking out this outlet, order the house speciality – Hakka pan mee or flour noodles – which is not on the menu. I only found out that it was available when I made queries after having seen a noodle-making machine at the entrance.
Pan mee is usually served soup-style. Here, it’s served kon lou (dry) with a generous helping of minced meat and fishballs stewed with home-made gravy.
Priced at RM2.30 a bowl, the pan mee is also one of the best I’ve tried so far and it goes very well with yong tau foo.
Bitter and Tangy Tea
For something to drink, there’s fresh soya bean milk and coconut water, but I’d suggest you try their local brew – a herbal tea called Ko Hou Kum.
This tea tastes bitter at times and tangy at others as I’ve found out during my few trips there.
A staff member said that if one’s body is “heatyâ€, the tea would taste bitter. Otherwise, it would be slightly sweet and tangy. A pot of tea for four persons costs RM4.
Getting There
If you’re using the Port Dickson highway, the road to Mambau is located half a kilometre or so on your left before the PD highway toll plaza. There’s a signboard, so you can’t miss it.
Once you’ve taken the turn into Mambau, you’ll come to a roundabout. At 12 o’clock, after crossing the river, you’ll see the Mambau Hakka Yong Tau Foo (non-halal) stall on your left, under a huge tree.
It opens from as early as 10am to 5pm daily except Tuesdays. Parking is easy except perhaps during the lunch hour. If you can’t find the way, call them at 06-631 8395.
TUNG ENG SWEE
http://www.nst.com.my/Weekly/Travel/article/ShoppingGourmetTrail/20070327104325/Article/
Jazz the right beat
MIRI will enjoy some jazzy times soon when bands such as the The Dirty Dozen Brass Band from New Orleans, the US, Orak Naa Naa from Morocco, Habana Sana Sax (Cuba), Lluis Coloma (Spain) and Malaysia’s very own David Gomez Sextet and Junji Delfino among others, come a-calling.
For two days beginning May 11, the oil town will present another exciting edition of the Miri International Jazz Festival (MIJF). From the upbeat jazz tempo with a tinge of funky gospel tunes played by The Dirty Dozen to the boogie woogie jazz beat of Lluis Coloma, the festival will keep the audience on their feet.
A total of eight international jazz bands from all four corners of the globe have confirmed their attendance at the festival, which will be staged at the Pavillion of Parkcity Everly Hotel in Miri.
Organised by the Sarawak Tourism Board (STB), the jazz musical extravaganza is aimed at boosting Miri’s tourism industry and making the festival an icon for the town that is famous for its oil.
This year, STB will also use its famous Rainforest World Music Festival formula of using two stages to showcase the MIJF to ensure festival goers will have continuous good fun at the event without any interruption in between the band acts.
Tickets for the festival are priced at RM50 (per person per day) and RM90 (per person for two days).
Jazz enthusiasts are encouraged to buy their tickets at www.ticketcharge.com now so as not to miss this spectacular festival. Limited tickets are available.
MIJF is endorsed by Tourism Malaysia and supported by Ministry of Tourism, Malaysia and Ministry of Urban Development and Tourism, Sarawak.
For more information on the festival, call 085-434 180 or logon on to www.mirijazzfestival.com.
http://www.nst.com.my/Weekly/Travel/article/LeisureChoice/20070327125024/Article/
Filed under travel | Comment (0)Pack it right
Few people enjoy packing and unpacking for a trip. SHANTI GUNARATNAM has tips to help ease the chore
WHETHER it’s business or a holiday, packing for the trip can be fun for some while others might simply detest it.
Unpacking, say many seasoned travellers, is even more of a nightmare, especially when the packing is badly done in the first place.
If you’re planning to go away for a few days or weeks, it’s advisable to pack sensibly.
For a start, clearly tag your baggage on the outside and on the inside by clearly writing your name, address, contact number and the name of the hotel where you’ll be staying at your destination.
It’s good to put this information inside the bag as well, in case the tag comes off during handling.
Always pack you own bags, even if you’re travelling within the country. This way, you’ll know for sure that you have everything you need. It’s also important to lock your bags with hardy locks.
People who forget to lock their bags or who use inferior quality locks, have had their bags rummaged through at airports.
Never let anyone pack your bags for you and don’t act as couriers for others, even friends or relatives, as there have been cases of people duped into carrying narcotic drugs or even bombs.
So how you do organise the limited space in your bags?
Simple. The nooks and corners are always good for putting socks, undies, lingerie, shorts, your mobile phone charger, small toiletry bags and handkerchiefs.
You can pack modem cables in small boxes or little pouches and tuck them into corners.
Extra plastic bags for dirty laundry can be folded and placed in corners or in between clothes.
Jewellery and breakable items such as CDs, DVDs and laptops are best hand carried.
It’s advisable to carry a set of underwear and clothing in your hand luggage, just in case your checked-in baggage is lost.
Clothes are bound to get crushed in the bag. But don’t worry. When you get to the hotel, simply hang the creased clothes behind the shower curtain and let the steam from the hot shower iron out the wrinkles. Or you can always request for an iron and board from the house-keeping department.
SHANTI GUNARATNAM
http://www.nst.com.my/Weekly/Travel/article/TravelTips/20070327111214/Article/
