Ethnic experience
KAPIT in Sarawak may not be many people’s idea of a holiday but for those who love the wild, it will be a wonderful experience. There are always surprises to discover in Kapit.
For those who enjoy sape music – thanks to the State’s annual Rainforest Music Festival that popularises this genre of traditional music – you can hear them raw from the Orang Ulu in the Belaga region or buy CDs in Kapit’s many music stores.
Going Up the Rejang
The trip to the little town on the Rejang River is 2½ hours from Sibu and can be quite a fascinating experience.
The river is flanked on both sides by virgin forest and dotted sparingly by longhouses, timber clearings as well as small towns such as Song and Kanowit (where former Works Minister and current Tenaga Nasional chairman Tan Sri Leo Moggie comes from). You see Chinatown styled buildings in these towns.
The early morning mist hampers visibility, so try and catch the late morning boat to better enjoy the view of the 590km river and life along its banks.
The air is naturally very fresh, tinged with a whiff of alluvial. The width of the yellowish green river varies, sometimes as narrow as 15 metres, sometimes broader, as it makes its way to the sea. The lush greenery is sometimes interrupted by clearings where logs are stacked up, all ready to be exported.
The economy of the State depends largely on timber. You may even see logs floated down from the upper reaches of the Rejang. I even saw a man who walked over floating logs stretching some 100 metres to inspect them in a drizzle!
Halfway along the journey, one can see more modern, painted longhouses. These are built of planks and plywood unlike traditional longhouses with stilts, a ruai and bamboo floors — the type that tourists expect to see!
A ruai is a large, open area in a longhouse where the natives can sit down to socialise or work on their handicraft.
Modern longhouses are huge, with over 50 units of one family each. Very old longhouses, some more than 100 years and built of hard timber can still be found in Kapit as well as in the Baleh and Belaga areas. Some of these have 100 families living in them. If you stand at one end, you can’t see the other end of the longhouse.
Unlike Batang Lupar (the river where novelist Somerset Maugham was said to have nearly lost his life), Rejang River is not infested with crocodiles. Often, you can see people leisurely fishing along the banks or in sampans.
The ride up the Rejang is made so much more enjoyable by all these daily activities of the local folks.
War And Peace
With life going on at such a leisurely pace, it’s hard to imagine that just 100 years ago, headhunters roamed the area. The Ibans and the Orang Ulus were constantly at war until they signed a treaty on Nov 16, 1924, at Fort Sylvia and peace settled on the land. The treaty was witnessed by the second Rajah of Sarawak, Sir Charles Brooke, who also ordered the building of Fort Sylvia that constituted the administrative centre of the region until quite recently.
Heartland of Iban
In London in 1963, a man dressed in tribal costume took the city by surprise. This was the late Tun Temenggung Jugah Anak Barieng, an Iban from Kapit and one of Sarawak’s most respected leaders who was in London for talks on the independence of Sarawak and the formation of the Federation of Malaysia.
The momentous photograph of him with the Duke of Edinburgh, Prince Philip, still hangs at Fort Sylvia.
Tun Jugah was buried at the Methodist Church Graveyard in Jalan Selirik, a 10-minute drive from Kapit town.
Kapit is the main town of the Seventh Division, the largest division in Sarawak. It is the heartland of the Iban, the largest ethnic group in the State and comprises Song, Kapit and Belaga. The latter is where most of the Orang Ulu are found.
It has a population of about 100,000, mostly Iban and Orang Ulu farmers, Chinese businessmen and farmers as well as timber camp workers.
Busy Wharf
Kapit Wharf is the busiest in this last outpost of the Rejang River. Here, speedboats carry passengers to anywhere upriver such as Baleh, Pelagus Rapids as well as to Belaga, home of the Orang Ulu (a loose term that includes Kayans, Kenyahs, Kajang, Penan, Baketan, Ukit, Seping, Sihan, Lisun and Memaloh).
Why Go
Such a trip is the best way to understand the lifestyle and culture of the Iban and Orang Ulu.
The rainforest also boasts a large diversity of flora and fauna such as hornbills, samba deer, barking deer, sun bears and civet cats.
There are waterfalls, rapids and good fishing grounds for anglers. Those interested in folk and tribal music, especially the sape, will find the Orang Ulu a source of inspiration. Some of the old women have enlongated ears, stretched by years of wearing huge brass earrings and some sport elaborate tattoos.
At the Kapit waterfront, you can see spectacular sunsets with migrating egrets flying back to roost in trees.
Shoot The Rapids
You can also shoot the rapids at Pelagus. The rapids used to act as a defence barrier for the Orang Ulu in their war against the Ibans.
The Regency Pelagus Resort is right at the bank of the Pelagus, an hour by boat from Kapit. Here, you can dine to the rushing rhythm of the rapids and watch hornbills, go jungle trekking or visit Rumah George, a longhouse in Ulu Pelagus.
For more information, visit pelagus@tm.net.my
For visits to Belaga and beyond, a permit is required from the Resident Office in Kapit. Belaga is six hours by boat from Kapit.
Tale of Two Museums
Fort Sylvia: The fort was initially named Fort Kapit but in 1925, it was renamed after Ranee Sylvia, the wife of the third Rajah, Charles Vyner Brooke.
Made of belian wood, this imposing white building in a large compound overlooking the Rejang, was given a facelift 10 years ago when the Tun Jugah Foundation took over the management of the fort and set up a museum. The latter is a great resource centre for those who want to learn more about Kapit and its history over the last 150 years. On the ground floor are rare amber and carvings found in the Merit Pila coal mine.
There are many pictures showing the transformation of Kapit from a little trading post to the bustling town that it is today. There are also exhibits of heirloom jars, brass cannons, brass plagues, medals and pictures of Iban leaders like Tun Jugah. A section is dedicated to pua kumbu (traditional woven cloth), some of which were made by a renowned weaver, Gading Anak Mayau.
Fort Sylvia was the administrative centre for the Upper Rejang Region of the Brooke Administration from 1880 to 1946 followed by the British Government till Sarawak’s independence in 1963.
After that, it housed the District Office and the District Court House. It became the Resident’s Office when the Kapit Division was formed in April 1973.
Civic Centre Museum: Located on the ground floor of the Civic Centre, this is worth a visit as it features interesting pictures, antique tajaus (jars) and utensils as well as cultural descriptions of the various tribes.
Longhouse Visit
Most tourists come here to visit old longhouses. Do bring along some gifts for the tuai rumah (longhouse chief) and children. Don’t turn down the offering of tuak (rice wine). Drink a little if you can.
The following longhouses are recommended:
n Sungai Kain in Baleh: This longhouse won an international award for its excellent pua kumbu. The Japanese International Design Promotion Organisation gave a G-Mark (good design award) for the intricate and exotic designs of the pua kumbu.
n Rumah Penghulu Jampi, Nanga Entawau, Baleh: This is the birthplace of the legendary war hero and local chief Temenggong Koh Anak Jubang.
n Rumah Bundong: 10km from Kapit town.
Where To Shop
The Gelangang Kenyalang is where you can shop for souvenirs and clothes, sample local food as well as get an Iban-style tattoo at a shop on the first floor. One of the shops will even make you a pua kumbu jacket.
Nearby is the Teresang Market where, as early as 4am, Iban people come, bringing their produce, vegetables, tobacco, fish, prawns, snakes and exotic meat such as deer and musang. The best time to be there is between 8am and 10am.
Those interested in ethnic music from the region can find them in music stores here which also carry Iban pop CDs.
Where To Stay
There are many hotels in Kapit, from budget establishments to two-star hotels. A room with air-conditioning in a two-star hotel such as the Orchard Inn and New Rejang Inn, costs around RM50 a night. Orchard Inn is near Gelangang Kenyalang.
Getting There
Catch a flight to Sibu and then take a taxi to the Sibu Express Boat Terminal where there are regular speedboats to Kapit till about 2pm. The ride takes 2½ hours and tickets cost between RM20 and RM30.
AirAsia operates three daily flights from Kuala Lumpur to Sibu and back. The others routes are Johor Baru-Sibu (1 daily flight), Sibu-Johor Baru (1 daily flight), Kuching-Sibu (4 daily flights) and Sibu-Kuching (4 daily flights). You can book your flight at airasia.com.my
For more information, check out www.kapitro.sarawak.gov.my/php/main/english/tourism/index.php.
Article from:
http://www.nst.com.my/Weekly/Travel/article/FeatureStory/20070129141812/Article/
Visit Malaysia Year 2007: Parade of Flowers
OVER 50,000 people turned up at Putrajaya for the Flora Fest 2007 Floral Parade at Perdana Avenue recently.
Eighteen floats rolled out, each led by a brass band that performed entertaining numbers such as Jalur Gemilang and Bujang Lapok.
The floats were accompanied by stylishly-clad models and, in some instances, girls who danced in and out between the floats.
The parade, themed Colours of Harmony, was the main attraction of the Flora Fest held from Jan 20 to Feb 4, one of the main events for Visit Malaysia Year 2007.
State Governments, local authorities as well as the private sector all joined hands to make the event a success.
All the floats were creatively designed, making full use of the colours of various flowers like chrysanthemums, carnations, marigolds, orchids and roses. The designs not only showcased the flora and fauna of the country but also its cultural diversity.
Deputy Prime Minister Datuk Seri Najib Tun Razak was so impressed that he asked Tourism Minister Datuk Seri Tengku Adnan Tengku Mansor to organise a bigger parade next year.
Tengku Adnan said: “Flowers are usually associated with fragrance, beauty and purity. The different types of colourful blooms represent the multiracial people of the country.â€
The parade was televised live by RTM. It started soon after the arrival of the King and Queen as well as Datuk Seri Najib and his wife, Datin Seri Rosmah Mansor, in classic looking horse drawn carriages.
The first float was the futuristic Tourism Malaysia Float led by the Royal Military Police Matching band. The main showpiece was a giant astronaut with white flowers with a flag in his hand.
There were also the replicas of the Twin Towers, Eye on Malaysia and a sail bedecked with flowers with the words Monsoon Cup. One head-turner was a giant butterfly. Other animals depicted were a giant bee and a frog that fiddled a violin.
Every float carried the name of the state or organisation it represented as well as a meaningful tagline. Penang’s entry, titled “Wings of Dreams†flew away with the Premier Trophy.
Pahang’s giant elephants and its take on ecotourism and island attractions with marine creatures such as seahorses and fish won the jury special prize.
Though Johor did not take home any prize, it won the hearts of rose lovers as it was the only float which used thousands of roses of different colours.
Sabah bemused with a giant green lizard or Agamid with its tongue sticking out and tail in a coil. It was really a back-to-nature theme with plenty of lizards on the float and attendants in tribal gears. It won the Themed Trophy.
The Kelantan float had five floral pillars and bird cages, a big drum, the replica of the 300-year-old Masjid Kampung Laut and a spinning top. To top it all, it included a group of young men performing the dikir barat.
The Kedah and DBKL floats won the Parade Special Trophy and Creative Trophy respectively.
JOHN TIONG
Article from:
http://www.nst.com.my/Weekly/Travel/article/Destinations/20070205115106/Article/
Standing taller than the trees
Malaysia has the world’s longest walk in the sky. PUTRI ZANINA steps out gingerly… THE river gushes dizzyingly below. White water lashes at boulders dotting the Sungai Sedim in the jungle. Up above, tree canopies look like roofs in the sky.
I’m standing on the world’s longest Tree Top Walk – the middle span of the walkway where it crosses the river offers the best view.
If you think the coconut tree is tall, this iron walkway is even taller. Imagine standing at the edge of a building 12 storeys high. Now imagine walking along it for 45 minutes – precisely the length of time you need to walk leisurely from the entrance to the exit. Or it may even take you longer, for you’re now in a world of giant trees with big trunks supporting lush green canopies.
I feel like a pygmy in comparison. These are relatively untouched trees that thankfully loggers have overlooked. What joy to see leaves dancing in the breeze and hear birds twittering in the crispy morning.
Trees drape the mountainside in the near distance. The remoteness of this part of Kedah has kept it quite pristine. Sungai Sedim and the Tree Top Walk are located in the Gunung Inas Forest Reserve, which is a good thing as the natural heritage there can be preserved. That this is a forest reserve does not deter wildlife poachers, which is why it’s not easy to spot even a squirrel. In the thick of the jungles, however, tigers and deer roam free.
Male And Female Trees
As you move along the sturdy walkway, you may think initially that all the trees look the same but really they’re not identical. You’re sure to come across some great-looking hunks (oops! trees). Hey, I’m the only one on that skywalk and my imagination runs riot.
There are tall, handsome trees with huge and tanned hardy trunks. Then there are those with mid “bellies†that expand horizontally. The female-looking trees have shady canopies that spread protectively over stems with clusters of buds. Occasionally, I spot starkly beautiful burst of orange, red and purple – wild flowers and fruit between green leafs and brown twigs.
Most of the trees are labelled and you can get to know more about them at info stands stationed strategically on the walkway. There are 34 stations altogether bearing names of trees such as keruing bulu and medang.
There’s also the Petai Station where those who can’t get enough of these stinky beans can see what the tree looks like. It’s a rather skinny tree compared to the giants around, but it can tower up like a building six storeys high with long stalks from which clusters of petai pods swing in the breeze.
Don’t miss the 34th station called Kulim where you’ll see the kulim tree (after which the Kedah town of Kulim was named. You have to pass through Kulim to get to Sungai Sedim).
This tree has a brown trunk with some parts about the size of a huge trailer tyre. A medium hard timber, kulim is used in buildings and other structural construction. The tree is also known as pokok bawang hutan (literally, jungle onion tree). Its bark and fruit smell like garlic, and they’re believed to have medicinal value. The orang asli have been known to crush the bark and mix it with their food. Its scientific name is Scorodocarpous Dorneensis. (Skorodos is Latin for garlic and karpus means fruit).
You’ll see the different profiles of a tropical rain forest – up above, the canopy, shrubs in the middle, small plants below and fallen seeds and leaves look like carpet on the forest floor.
In the distance, Kedah’s highest peak and the peninsula’s third highest mountain, Gunung Bintang, looms high over a thick field of jungles. You can trek there from Sungai Sedim and it takes some three hours to reach the peak.
Lord Of The Rough Garden
Not only is Sungai Sedim known for the longest tree top walk but it is also hailed as one of the country’s best spots for white water rafting. It has attracted rafters from many countries including Australia and New Zealand.
Sungai Sedim has been “crowned†by these rafters as the Lord of the Rough Garden. It’s a commanding lord indeed with 17km of non-stop rapids graded from one to four. (Rapids are rated on a scale of one to five. One is smooth water with a little current, while five is almost impossible to conquer).
With names like Rodeo Rapid, Sandwich Rapid and Kiss and Drop, it doesn’t take a genius to imagine what these rapids are like. A friend who had conquered the river described how she felt like she was “being thrown and sandwiched between the raft and the fierce rocks and become the filling of a huge curry-puff!â€
As for me, I’m quite content to just dip my feet in the gurgling waters and watch currents splash and foam like champagne around boulders. When I warm up enough to the cold water, I let it run over my body and even let it swallow me momentarily. I emerge totally refreshed.
Getting There And Around
The journey is part of the fun. You hit the spanking new Butterworth-Kulim Expressway for a smooth 45-minute drive. At Kulim, you drive through the Kulim High Tech Park with its modern complexes and factories.
Moving further, the scene soon changes to that of villages with thatched huts on stilts among wooden and brick houses. You see plantations and then unkempt bushes and jungle fringes as you drive further towards a place called Karangan.
From there, follow signboard instructions to the Sungai Sedim Tree Top Walk. Just as you turn into Kampung Lindongan Raja at Kampung Sedim, you’ll see a wooden arch. On the left is an old wooden house but this is not just any old kampung house.
Part of Kedah’s history was made here as this was where Sultan Abdul Hamid Halim Shah, Kedah’s 25th Sultan and the father of our first Prime Minister Tunku Abdul Rahman, took refuge during World War II in 1941. The villagers protected the 77-year-old sultan until it was safe for him to return to his palace in Alor Setar.
Although it’s 654 years old, the house still stands strong. It now belongs to the family of the late Mohd Yassin Mutalib or Tok Ayah. Stopping there will give you a breather and you may even meet Tok Ayah’s descendant, Maznah Wahid, who welcomes visitors with open arms.
Soon, the tarred kampung road gives way to a winding narrow and bumpy dirt road with little huts, trees and bushes. If you’re making the trip for the first time, make sure you travel during the day, as otherwise you risk crashing your car into a tree in the dark!
You’ve arrived at Sungai Sedim when you see the signboard Sungai Sedim Recreation Forest.
On the return journey, drive around to the villages and little towns like Mahang and you’ll be surprised to see the Dublin Golf Course and Club (built during WWII) right here in the wilderness.
Imagine English plantation owners of old in white slacks and shirts swinging their golf clubs or in their khaki shorts inspecting the rubber and oil palm estates. In the area now is the Dublin oil palm estate run by Guthrie.
Where To Stay
There are plenty of camping sites by the river (RM5 per person). Pitch your tents and then go swimming, trekking or fishing. You can catch ikan tengas, toman and other freshwater fish in some 10 deep pools or lubuk with names like Lubuk Siku and Lubuk Kawah.
For a little basic comfort, Bintang Sedim Villa offers dormitory type lodging. The villa is perched on a slightly hilly part near the river. There are rooms with two, six, 14, 16 and 24 beds with rates starting from RM20 per person (minimum 10 persons) to RM40 for a room with twin beds. Meals must be pre-ordered. Breakfast is from RM3, lunch/dinner from RM7 and a barbecue from RM25 per person (for groups of 20 only).
Its sports and recreation manager Kamaruzaman Ibrahim (or simply Kamarul) will take groups for jungle trekking, fishing and white water rafting. The rafting adventure package is RM190 per person per hour for minimum of four persons. The rate includes lunch, guide and rescue team.
For details and reservations, call Kamarul at 013-322 2373 or the head office in Kulim at 04-490 1588 or email sedimttw@streamyx.com.
World’s Longest Tree Top Walk Claim
Before the Sungai Sedim Tree Top Walk was completed, Western Australia’s Giants Tree Top Walk in the National Park in Walpole near Perth held the world record as the longest tree top walk in its category (galvanised steel). The Aussie walkway over the Valley of the Giants runs 800 metres with its highest spot reaching 40 metres.
The Sungai Sedim walkway measures 925 metres long and stands 50 metres at its highest platform. Unlike a suspension bridge, the walkway holds firm and does not sway which is good news for those who fear heights or the nervous with wobbly knees. It’s made of pylon, truss, bolts, nuts and other hardy stuff all weighing 422,214kg!
The walkway is open daily (except during heavy rain with lightning) from 8.30am to 5.30pm. Entrance fees are RM10 adult and RM6 child.
For details, access www.treetopwalk.com.my
PUTRI ZANINA
Article from:
http://www.nst.com.my/Weekly/Travel/article/FeatureStory/20070205131639/Article/
